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On sturday we were out at 9 mile for the end of year BBQ for the mud boggs. Many got stuck.. While trying to winch one guy out my winch died. First I thought it was an electrical issue as in not enough juice. But that wasn't it. It will power out but just clicks when trying to power in. I'm going to take it off tonight and try to see what's going on. Before anyone says solenoids be advised I only have one solenoid and it's a solid state, not like the warns and such at all. Motor was barely warm. So what do you think it is?



also at the last race the handle was broken by a guy trying to engage it. I have it rigged it will work but it will not go into free spool now due to this. I think I'm going to have to order a new handle because I don't think I can get this one out now and will probably have to cut it.
alaska electric rebuilders do a good job.

I would check and clean the solenoid (I said it! haha!)n my winch woes when I had one It was the solenoid.. it was not making contact!!., I would also check and clean other electric contacts, but im sure you have thought of that already.

while the winch is apart I would give it a "tune up" -clean and grease in all the right spots.
I know Ole has done some work with them. maybe he will see this and post up.

Thanks for reminding me, I need to get one!
I had to clean the brushes and stuff on my warn after sitting for years without use. it started to work then died, I took it apart cleaned all the internal electric motor parts and brushes and it was good as new. I don't think it liked the salt from NY. Had the same problem with the plow winch. took it apart cleaned the motor up and has worked pretty good since.
I rebuilt this one over the winter. I'm going to check all connections. I'm hoping I can find the problem outside of the boomer box. That thing is a pain to put back together.
solid state huh, wonder if the card got wet? shorted something out. I was thinking remote but you are getting a click out of it, can hurt to check it out for bad contact.
I have an in cab switch wired in. But yes I'm going to check that. As that was an issue before but had a different symptom.
Clean contacts.
Pulled apart last night. Solenoid is in top condition. So took it out. An the electric motor out. Going to clean it all tonight when I get home.
Well after the solenoid checked out now I think that's the issue. Found two wires that broke after it wouldn't do anything with the switch but with a jumper wire it would. Then it worked fine. Then nothing again. Hooked the charger up to the battery and it worked. My battery isn't the best. Then all of a sudden it would click when trying to go in a gain. The solenoid clicks, power wire in to the solenoid jumps and the motor jumps but wont turn. I had another solenoid but gave it to Shane. He is going to bring it over and I'll see if that fixes the issue as I know that one was good. If so I'll order a couple of them. Actually I may order a whole new box as it comes with a remote which I need.
akram Wrote:. Before anyone says solenoids be advised I only have one solenoid and it's a solid state,
:troutslap:
I still dont think that's the problem. But will know for sure today. I seen one wire that was might be the issue and not sure if that can ve fixed or not though.
I would definitely check all the connections closely for oxidation. I was troubleshooting a glowplug trouble light on the Volkswagen car. I was getting good voltage and good resistance on the glow plugs so I cleaned all the contacts, but this still didn't clear the troublelight. I replaced the glow plugs, still no good. Replaced the glow plug harness and still didn't work. So all electrical connections were now factory new and it still didn't clear the troublelight. I sprayed the connections with DeoxIt (a spary deoxidizer) and it worked correctly now. So even the factory new connections has some oxidization on them.

http://www.caig.com/ I found some small spray bottles of DeoxIt here in town at Radio Shack for cleaning AV connectors. It worked so good that I purchased a bigger can from Creative Lighting & Sound in Anchorage.
Ole helped me a bit after moving all his stuff and my stuff yesterday. Came to the conclusion it's most likely the....








Motor. Taking it in this week to get it tested. Then I'll know for sure.

I never thought about spraying the connections. I have some stuff I use on battery terminals. I'll use it when it gets pit back together.
Well the saga continues. Motor checks out fine. The guy couldn't figure out the solid state solenoid. He kept trying to test it and got nothing to happen at all. I tried to explain it to him and he just shook his head and said yeah the whole time. So I'll swap in the other solenoid tonight and see if that works. One thing he did notice is that it shocked him while he was holding onto the solenoid trying to test it. That shouldn't happen. So it could have gotten hot and now have a wire touching on the inside of the solenoid housing. I'll find out more tonight.
maybe it isnt properly insulated. loose wire, exposed connection at an electric terminal? (a short)
Who knows. Maybe I'll get time tonight. Last night I had to work on another car.
So not the motor and bot the solenoid or connections. What's left? Something in the winch itself. Well I found it. But you'll have to wait. I'll post pics later of why not to pull by your winch other than winching. And why you shouldnt over tighten bolts.
A teaser for now. And no this isn't any of the gears
[Image: d170b88c-01a5-09e4.jpg]
The brake assembly?
I don't have a "brake" but yes. I hooked the solenoid up to just the motor and it worked fine. Put it back on the winch and tested it out and it wouldn't work. Started not going in or out. Took the end off since I have the handle fixed in the lock position. It spins fine that way. So took the winch back off and took it apart and found the stop in many pieces. Going to try to call around today and see where I can find a new one and a new remote while I'm at it.

But I over tightened, which is usually the opposite of what I do, one of the bolts on the winch and the foot broke on it. I need to see if someone can weld that back and it be just as strong.
Waiting on one more thing to order the parts needed to get the winch up and running. Talked to Westin and they have the brake assembly as well as the gear box base I need since I broke on of the mounting feet off. Parts aren't bad for these things price wise except for the remote. And that's due to them sending a new wireless receiver out with each one. I did find some info though.

Northern tool sells a 9000lb winch for ~$350. I started looking at part numbers and realized they are the same as the T-max, westin and others. So I called them and the parts are cheaper through them but they don't have one of the parts I need till December. But It's got me to thinking I might buy another winch and since the northern tool one is the same winch (the lady told me the manufacture was T-max) and really cheap I may go that route. But hopefully I hear back tomorrow and get the parts ordered to get the winch up and going.
Buy the new one, mount it up front andad when you get your old one fixed you then get to have a rear ounted winch.
I'm already ordering the parts to fix this one. Shipping on the other one isn't very cheap. I may go with the sam's club one for the trailer. With the bumper I'm building I won't have room for a rear mounted one. And I already carry to much inside.
for the bumper winches, could you make it so it could fit into a trailer hitch if needed?
I could but I dont want to. That means I'd have to have it sticking way out or inside the rig till needed. I don't like either of those options. Because of the gas tank there isn't room to put it under the jeep either. I have seen a few rear bumpers that had a winch. The winch had to be mounted upside down and even then it sat down a little too far for my liking.