operation k5 buggy build

[ak_petey]

So here is the plan, I have been talking about it to some members for a while now and now it is time to put it in writing.
goals:
454 tbi swap.
narrow the front end,
narrow/bobtail the rear end.
narrow the bumpers
interior cage
hydro assist
box out the steering section on the frame
bigger tires.

Basically it is going to look similarly but a giant version of skitzo.
updates will follow with pics.

---------- Post added at 12:12 am ---------- Previous post was at 12:00 am ----------

I am needing some help removing the front clip on the blazer. I get off work at around at 6 each day this week (roughly).

I believe everything is ready to be pulled. I went over and over again on all the wires and hoses and bolts to make sure nothing was attached. I was also wondering if I could get a hand in pulling the 350 tbi out too. I know it is a weeknight. So maybe friday will work better. .. ?
Im pretty flexible,

[jeremiahak]

Keep me posted on your tires, because I think I have a project that I'll need some bigger tires for.

I can't help out tonight, but I could probably help out another night this week.

[Fix_It]

what makes skitzo work so well pete is his low COG , his only sheetmetal is the cab so his axles stick out real wide clearing any DOT tire he wants without any lift .. this makes him very stable and easy to manuver thruogh the trees .

this next rebuild on the 85 buggy will dropping the truck as low as i can when i go full ford 1 ton drive train i want low and wide and use my tires for the ground clearance .

you could use your k-5 chassis and hang a s10 pickup cab on there and do the same a skitzo wich would make a nice short wheelbase rig and realy lighten you up and then you can drop it make u wicked stable and killer flex machine .

[ak_petey]

Wayne- I was planning on doing that s10 swap when the blazer body is just absolutely done and just had enough to the point of where I am saying "why do I still have this junk on here?!" :)

I was thinking of friday night to do this, unless my ARB diff locker comes in for my daily driver- that NEEDS to be put in before snowfall. (priority)
Did I just type "ARB diff locker" and "daily driver" in the same sentence? I did! hahaha.

[boshos]

Kevin had a good idea a while back to use a S-10 crew cab for a swap, would be sweet

[jeremiahak]

If you shrink the front and rear of your truck as much as we've talked about then I don't think you'll need to do an S10 swap. I agree with those above who have stated that having a low COG is the key. I'll be going that route with my full width axle'd mini truck as well.

[ak_petey]

My blazer is going to loose its lift in exchange for a shackle drop and stock springs.

[ak_petey]

Planning:
So I am taking Wayne's and Kevin's advice.

Wayne mention to me that having hydro assist is the way to go with my blazer. this allows me to switch over to hydro assist or just the steering gear box in the event one of them breaks on the trail. not only does this help with the steering, but it is also smart, and a good investment (ill be around for a while) :)
I called performance steering components (PSC) and asked about the setup stuff I would need. the hardware, a sturdy gear box, and hydro cylinder from performance steering is only going to run me about $635 for everything (gear box is $379 and cylinder and hardware $256 ) not too shabby! I am returning my Napa gear box for a complete refund. PSC mentioned how they continually hear about the low grade quality of remanufactured gear boxes from companies like napa and schucks .

After the 55 mile trail ride of 2010 on sept 4th, I took the output shaft nut off of the gear box and removed the pitman arm, the snap ring and washer to the gear box fell to the ground immediately. maybe I got a bad remanufactured gear box? maybe the 39" boggers were too much for the gear box. .. too many maybes for me. Im going with what was built for offroading. Not only was driving without no power steering very dangerous in my opinion, I also dumped a lot of ATF on the ground. (not cool with me, but its how I had to get off the trail safely)

Kevin mentioned reinforcing my frame with another frame section and plate the rest. this sounds pretty simple! :)

---------- Post added at 11:43 pm ---------- Previous post was at 11:28 pm ----------

so Tomorrow I will be needing a little help pulling the front clip off and getting the 350 tbi motor out. This is about as far as I want to go tomorrow night (friday sept 10th) as My next task is to reinforce the frame at the gear box location.
I will be at my parents place at around 7 pm. It is at 7.2 mile chena hot springs road. off of Green Acres. 4th driveway on the right)

my number is 907 five 9 zero 3 zero 77. you can call or text me if you are wanting to stop by and help ( i prefer text because I miss a lot of phone calls).

---------- Post added at 11:45 pm ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 pm ----------

note:
the front clip is unbolted and should be ready to move.
I also have kevin's engine puller, the engine is still bolted to the transmission via bell housing bolts.

[88XJ]

I can stop by and give you a hand with the front clip, don't for get about the torque convert bolts.

[ak_petey]

sweet :)

[ak_petey]

Thanks Don (88xj) and jeremiah for stopping by. I was not prepared for the amount of help Don and his son and Jeremiah lent today. Very much appreciated!
tonight with the help of Don and Jeremiah I Got the clip and bumper off, most of the motor accessories off. the engine is ready to be pulled tomorrow when I get more time on it. the girlfriend needs my time too. :) Im lucky to have such a patient one!

[ak_petey]

The frame has been welded up and reinforced. I do not believe it will be cracking any time soon. :)
So....
I got the gear box in with the ports for hydro assist, the hydro assist cylinder , and some hardware.

I am unsure of how to go about mounting it up. Do I need to get another tie rod ( my knuckles tie rod ends have a hole that is not being used at the moment)
Do I cut into the current tie rod and have the ends threaded for the cylinder?
I remember seeing Waynes welded to the front axle, But failed to see how it was set up in detail. . anyone got some pics or info?

[Fix_It]

petey , on the front 60's ive seen the rams mounted to your diff cover and allot of guys i know like to weld to the tie rod and get it as close to the tie rod end so they dont bend the tie rods under pressure vs welding the brackets close center of the tie rod .

[ak_petey]

hmm im gonna have to see a set up that is well done .. gotta do it right the first time!

[ak_petey]

So I did some web searching and decided that I would like to have my ram assist mounted and secured to the differential cover or housing . Preferrably to the housing. can I weld on the housing? is this case cast or steel? welding tips? This will all have to be done above the axle because I dont want any steering equipment to be vulnerable to trail damage.

[ak_petey]

Thank you wayne for stopping by and showing me how it should be set up. A little welding on the cast iron and tie rod end and will have her all mounted very soon.

Wayne also talked me into boxing up the front of the blazer so that I can have my 63" springs in the front. I will have to fabricate an 8 inch spring mount drop to match the rear 8 inch spring lift though. by installing longer springs I believe I will have to get a longer front drive shaft made. those 63 inch springs are LONG.

I have further reinforced my decision to keep the rear stiff and make the front as flexy as possible for now. When or if I make the rear more flexy I will put 63 inch springs back there and make brackets to match the front.

[ak_petey]

so I have decided to go with the 63 inch springs.

I found a good pair at MSI for $150. The only thing I am worried about is my cross over steering's drag link being able to reach the axle as it is probably going to be moved up. I have a couple ideas to lengthen the drag link such as cutting, inserting some round stock steel, welding, and putting a sleeve over it and welding that too if needed.

---------- Post added at 06:34 pm ---------- Previous post was at 06:29 pm ----------

So this weekend it looks like I have a LOT of welding and cutting to do! this should be fun. :)

fabrication list of things to make:
front cross member,
front spring mounts,
heavy duty rear hangar 3/8 " flat bar steel and 1 1/2 schedule 40 i believe...
cross over steering tie rod lengthen.

I got this....
but if anyone wants to join in and help to get experience in doing this they are more than welcome to !
So this is the reason i took welding class! Who would have known !? :D

[88XJ]

Did you find a set that had a small lift or did you get it off a regular truck? Was it 2wd or 4wd?

[ak_petey]

I found a set that was on a regular non lifted 4wd 90's chevy. usually you can find them on the rear ends of 3/4 ton trucks. the 1 ton trucks i looked at had heavy heavy heavy duty springs helpers in the pack. WAY too thick for me. but the 3/4 ton had the length but not the extra pack!

I found two sets. one at MSI and one at ChevyKev's place. I may pick both sets up, but then again I may reuse my dodge stock rear springs which are 58" long, kinda thick but flat nonetheless, being 3 inches wide they may prevent axle wrap more than the 2.5" chevy springs.

I will be doing about a 6-8" spring bracket drop on all 4 corners eventually. but the fronts will be done this weekend.

[ak_petey]

The debate /deciding rages on with more info:
The current spring hanger- on the back side is swinging forward. I believe it is supposed to swing backwards (away from the motor) so that the spring pack separates under droop. If I mount them at the correct (opposite) angle by flipping them facing backwards I can make it right, this will This is important information because it takes 2 inches away from where the current mount is at. So the following measurements will have 2 inches subtracted.
Current springs = 46 inches.
the longer the spring = more flex

63" springs will extend the overall spring length by 63-46=17". 17-2= 15 inches (new spring mount will go way past the frame-hard, lots of welding)
56" springs will extend the overall spring length by 56-46=10". 10-2= 8 inches (new spring mount will be on the new crossmember- easy)
52" springs will extend the overall spring length by 52-46= 8". 8-2 = 6 inches (new spring mount will be relocated an easy 8 inches forward- easy)

Lift:
First, before I go into angles, lift must be addressed. I am debating on how far I need the the spring bracket mount to drop. 4-8 inches is the range of possibilities. I know 8 inches of spring drop is pretty extreme but sacrifices my goal of a lower COG, It would put my COG where it has been with the 8 inch spring lift. I like the height my lift gives me because it allows my tires to fit. Keep in mind the extending of the springs forward will give me added clearance. I am thinking that 4-5 inches of lift is perfect.
lift options (ideas of how to do it)
- welding a sub frame up on to the blazer to drop my mount and achieve my desired lift. (will result in more than 5 inches of lift)
- weld up some new brackets and brace the heck outta them. (4-8 inches possible)
- B52 Kit. (money I do not need to spend when I can fab it up myself- designed for 4 inches of lift)



Approach angles:
The axle perch mount sits @21.5 inches. Assuming that that new springs are going to sit level, I have calculated the new approach angles according to the spring perch mount:
63" = 34.3'
56" = 37.5'
52" = 39.5'

I think at this point I have decided against the 63 inch springs, I would have to really modify the frame forward and lose some approach angle. Ill see if the junk yard will exchange the 63s i pulled for 56s.

[ak_petey]

the blazer is sitting on the new springs. turns out I have 4 inches of lift without the weight of the motor in the front. Just a little more bracing and Ill be good to go.
The axle sits 8 inches more towards the front! I can now fit any DOT offroad tire under my blazer!
Just have to bolt up the gear box and see where I may need to adjust things.

My front driveline is no longer connected. it will have to be lengthened, I am more worried about the steering setup. I am eager to see if the drag link is going to be long enough to reach the passenger side knuckle tomorrow. If I have to lengthen it ( Drag link and driveshaft) what are some good options to consider? Ive got my own already, just wondering if someone else can think of it so i can verify that I am on the right track.

[akram]

As for the DS you can do it yourself. that is if it isn't going to see higher speeds. It's not hard but wont be balanced.

The drag link you can buy all the stuff to make your own as well.

[Fix_It]

id be worried about how far foward the box may sit to stay parralell with the tie rod . if this is a issue and try to keep it as parrelell as u can.

[ak_petey]

What about getting the tie rod bent and extended? Would it be possible to get my drag link on a bender?

---------- Post added at 06:27 pm ---------- Previous post was at 06:27 pm ----------

If so, who is willing to try it out :)

[ak_petey]

ok I goofed up. It turns out my blazer sits at about the same height as it did before :( I was hoping to have a lower COG. but on the plus side I have a flexy front with the added bonus of clearance. I wanted to gain most of my ground clearance by going to a larger Agriculture Tire or get ahold of some BLEMS. I almost sold the boggers this weekend but the buyer backed out, or at leasst I think he seemed not interested in them anymore. I dont mind keeping my boggers either. :) it doesnt bother me! They have plenty of tread on them left, good tire too.

So If I dropped the frame mounts to 4 inches lower, that makes the springs about a 4 " lift. When the thing is done I am hoping to score in the 400's on the RTI ramp. I dont think that my score will be very high due to my wheel base being stretched.

It still needs the motor swapped in. :( I believe that will be the fun business for next weekend. I should have my truck back at that time, so when I drop the motor on the mounts I will be able to return the borrowed engine hoist immediately.

It seems that I get about only 9 hours a week on average to work on my blazer. so this is going pretty slow.

---------- Post added at 01:00 am ---------- Previous post was at 12:00 am ----------

I am saving all the old shackles from the springs in case i decide to reuse them later for the rear. I just cut the flat bars for the rear part of the springs.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/100900_160000.jpg

Here I saved my front spring perches. they will be reused and welded onto the new mounts.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/100500_014500.jpghttp://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/100900_205600.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/100900_205601.jpghttp://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/100900_155900.jpg


Front crossmember welded into place. If I find I want to tear into it at a later date to achiecve a lower COG, I will make new perches out of this crossmember.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101000_104200.jpghttp://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101000_004900.jpg

and the bracing of the new spring mounts:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101000_104203.jpg

---------- Post added at 01:23 am ---------- Previous post was at 01:00 am ----------

This is the passenger and drivers rear part of the springs. I like the angle, but it is really close to the frame. Is this going to be a problem? if so, fixes?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/rearshackleposition1.jpg

---------- Post added at 01:24 am ---------- Previous post was at 01:23 am ----------

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/rearshackleposition2driverside.jpg

[AKMark]

Pete, with the shackles like that, you spring cannot flex much, as it has no where to go. You want your shackles to be nearly straight up and down when you are making your own mounts. Your springs need to go forward another inch or so.

[ChevyKev]

If you keep that crossmember where it is - gusset it. It appears there is some flat steel from the frame that the square tube crossmember is welded to. It may seem fairly sturdy right now - but trust me with the load and strain on it it is not as strong as you might think. Gussets gussets gussets.

And Mark is right on your spring flex/shackles.

[ak_petey]

hmm. i was told they were supposed to be that way. I can change it :D
thanks!

---------- Post added at 10:43 am ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 am ----------

kevin- you are talking about basically closing in on all the open areas exposed correct?

[ak_petey]

Shackle DO-over
Before:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101600_011200.jpg . http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/rearshackleposition2driverside.jpg
AFTER!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101600_155300.jpg

---------- Post added at 01:02 am ---------- Previous post was at 12:55 am ----------

REDO on- Front Spring shackle :
The hangars took FOREVER to make. Just lots of drilling and cutting. I went through 9 cutting disks today. I need to get a torch setup next time !!
Here the new hangars are bolted in, all I did was lower the frame on to the top of the hangars and welded it up.
I made the spring hangars long and drilled another set of holes in the back so that I can always convert to 52 inch springs. I am currently running 58 inch springs.
** the springs have about a 9 - 10 inch drop. :D **


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101600_155200.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101600_184702.jpg

---------- Post added at 01:08 am ---------- Previous post was at 01:02 am ----------

gussets: where would you guys put them? I was scratching my head because I kept looking at it and thought it was pretty sturdy like kevin said. Im all in for reinforcements.

where at is my question.

---------- Post added at 01:10 am ---------- Previous post was at 01:08 am ----------

it currently looks like this:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101600_184600.jpg

[ak_petey]

The high steer cross over has a new angle now. I think it will work without any adjusting. But I never know. I am assuming a little bit of bump steer. The ram assist cylinder is next on the list of things to install.

Wayne, sorry but I forgot what you said about how tweaking the tie rod before welding up the ram brackets. Can I get you to write up the instructions on here for reference or make a 4x4 tech post of some sort?

---------- Post added at 03:15 pm ---------- Previous post was at 03:13 pm ----------

NEW ANGLES On the high steer/crossover pics:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101600_221101.jpg, http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101600_221000.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101600_221100.jpg,

[ak_petey]

I have been rethinking the body fender narrowing/ modifications on the blazer
My thoughts:
1. ill loose storage space in the rear. (tires, recovery gear etc)
2. the initial purpose was to gain wheel approach angle. but i can get that by hacking into the rear fender... like hacking it off from as high on the he top of the wheel well all the way back. when I do my 63 inch springs in the rear, the axle will be moved back, giving me a better angle anyway.
3. Im still positive on the front modification to narrow it still for approach angle.

thoughts ? confirmation of my ideas/thoughts?

[ChevyKev]

The high steer cross over has a new angle now. I think it will work without any adjusting. But I never know. I am assuming a little bit of bump steer. The ram assist cylinder is next on the list of things to install.

Wayne, sorry but I forgot what you said about how tweaking the tie rod before welding up the ram brackets. Can I get you to write up the instructions on here for reference or make a 4x4 tech post of some sort?

---------- Post added at 03:15 pm ---------- Previous post was at 03:13 pm ----------

NEW ANGLES On the high steer/crossover pics:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101600_221101.jpg, http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101600_221000.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/101600_221100.jpg,

I happen to know this set up won't work... can anyone besdies Pete tell me why?

[ak_petey]

hahahaha

[Zukman]

The steering arm is on backwards on the box right is left, left is right.

[ak_petey]

shane wins! um... we havent thought up a prize yet.

[AKMark]

That would be a weird problem to try to drive with.

[ak_petey]

it was kinda funny cause I looked back and kevin couldnt seem to steer right as i pulled him.

[ak_petey]

I am going to be dropping the motor in this weekend. This is new to me so ... any help or people willing to stand by for questions would be GREAT!

*note * Since I got my truck back from that stupid collision, and its back on the road- I am back in action !Ill be happy to lend assistance to those who ask.

[akram]

Wish I could come out and help but this is a busy weekend for me.

[ak_petey]

seeing that you have kids and halloween weekend.. i completely understand :) have fun!

[ak_petey]

Ok.... so after a LONG night. The 454 is in. It took forever because Kevin's engine hoist decided to commit suicide. Luckily the hoist held the engine, I just wouldnt be able to raise it back up again. Another factor is that I installed the flex plate backwards. I noticed this when I had just finished bolting up the transmission. After I flipped over the flex plate and bolted it back on, lining up the transmission and motor was a PAIN because the engine hoist was done for. It died at 1 am this morning laying in its own pool of hydraulic fluid. Im sure it is fixable, just needs some new seals. My transmission decided it would joint the bleeding hydraulic fluid party and spilled about a quart...so anyway, I had to use the floor jack, some wood and about 8-9 hours to move the transmission back up to the motor. As I write this I have not slept yet!

My only concern is that the flex plate has some space between it and the torque converter. (about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch)

---------- Post added at 11:36 am ---------- Previous post was at 10:59 am ----------

also, what are the torque specs on torque converter bolts?

[Zukman]

That is to much of a gap, you need to recheck everthing. You should have 1/16 to 1/8 gap.

[ak_petey]

do you think the torque converter was pushed in too far? what about putting in spacers (washers) and making sure thread lock is on them? (this sounds like a bad idea).
If the torque converter was pushed too far back.. im worried about the tranny pump.
If I put the bolts in now, and sucked in the torque converter to the flex plate, would it be set at the correct position?

all to be checked.. bellhousing is flush with the motor, fly wheel is snugged up with each bolt at 60 ft lbs.

---------- Post added at 06:26 pm ---------- Previous post was at 06:19 pm ----------

the parts I used:
new flex plate from schucks, old torque converter that I re-used with the th400 and 350 tbi set up.

---------- Post added at 07:58 pm ---------- Previous post was at 06:26 pm ----------

I have been doing some reading on the net and people are saying ad some washers to shim it up. and keep about a 1/8" gap before tightening it up

[88XJ]

your torque converter will move out when you bolt it together. it seems a little much to me, but its been along time since I worked on full size chevy's. I wouldn't use washers myself. Call Porks Torques (907)373-4401 ask for porky, he helped me out allot with my problem and is more then happy to help someone over the phone.

[ak_petey]

porky? hehehehe... will do. thanks :D

[ak_petey]

So I have been thinking, to correct my steering...
I was thinking of swapping the tie rod and draglink positions on the knuckle because the drag link crosses paths with the tie rod due to me moving the axle up forward. I am expecting to not have as much leverage, but hopefully the ram assist will provide the extra needed force to turn. I will have to play with the positions this weekend and see what works best. Ill post up before and after pictures of what worked and what did not work.

Until then, any bright ideas ?

---------- Post added at 03:40 pm ---------- Previous post was at 03:35 pm ----------

Also. the new valve covers on my 454 engine got in the way of my brake master cylinder ? (the big round thing) I think I am going to go with a hydro boost braking system off of my 86 parts truck since it takes up less room and will allow it to fit.

someone mentioned running my ram assist with the hydro boost. I'm not sure this would be ok. but.. any thoughts on that?

[akram]

It will be fine. As long as your pump can handle it. Not sure that a stock ps pump will handle it.

[ak_petey]

I have the PSC power steering pump :) brand new!

[ak_petey]

ok so two things in this addition: steering and the flex plate wheel
Here I took a picture of the flex plate showing the spacing. It seems to be a bit less than when I looked before. Maybe I was just tired at the time.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/110500_201200.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/110500_201100.jpg

And here is the new steering configuration:
*notice the pitman is in the correct direction! YAY! haha
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/110500_201301.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/110500_201300.jpg

[88XJ]

Flex plate is normal, just tighten the bolts up. I can't really help yet with the steering, I will be attempting it in the next few months myself.

[ak_petey]

gimme a call or pm when you are ready to mess with your steering, I am interested in the set up you will be running. i might be able to steel some ideas as well :)

[ak_petey]

I believe that the ram assist is next on the blazer's to do list.

Due to the newly arranged steering set up (caused by the longer springs in the front) The new position of the RAM will not be on top of the differential housing.
I would like to note that my axle housing is BENT. so I will be correcting this and putting a truss on the top of the axle. I think this is where the RAM cylinder will be mounted.

on another note I am going to be looking for an intake for a 454 and offroad holley avenger carb. goodbye EFI!!!!

[ak_petey]

Trying to get the truggy running under its own power after the semester. Where should I start first?
The motor is on the frame motor mounts, and bolted to the the tranny. I have the new intake manifold w/gaskets, carb, electric fuel pump (regulated), water pump, front accessory brackets (most of the front accessories were burnt).
Would anything off of a 6.2 diesel be useful in swapping stuff over?

[ak_petey]

I got the new intake manifold, 770 cfm holley avenger carb, but confused on what distributor to use. Any ideas for something cheap and efficient? not looking for high performance, just reliability

reminder- the motor came out of a 93 chevy 2500

[AKMark]

GM HEI, easy, and fairly powerful.

[ak_petey]

When I go to napa, does the year make and model matter?

[AKMark]

Probably shoot for 86 K30 with a 454 and you should be good to go.

[ak_petey]

Im going to attempt to get the motor together as much as possible.
I could really use the knowledge and assistance of how to do, what to do and not to do,

Thursday night 12/23 (tomorrow)
6 pm

907 five nine zero 3077
-peter
@
2453 Green Acres
fairbanks ak 99712

[akram]

Man all you guys got builds going on. I really want to get out and work with each of you. Just no time. I haven't been able to work on my own stuff in a month or more. Maybe soon I'll make it out.

[ak_petey]

Delayed for a little . will be there at 7

[ak_petey]

I am so lost. Definitely need help on this one

[AKMark]

If things didn't go so weird here, I'd help, but.......

[ak_petey]

I just don't know where to start. I am starting out on the intake manifold,
I got two sets of gaskets of different material. rubber compound and one metallic like .. and then there is a choice of cork or rubber for the front and rear seals . not sure what to use or what to do to prep it.

I'm postponing my build on the motor till I can get some help. I spent too much money on parts thusfar to screw it up due to my own ignorance.

ill post some pics as soon as I get home to upload them to my computer.
steps and instructions are much appreciated.
I'll be willing to work on it Christmas eve and the day after Christmas if anyone wants to come out.

[ak_petey]

Are these necessary?!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/building%20stuff/IMAG0034.jpg

I tore the instructions. took a pic of it while holding it together.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/building%20stuff/IMAG0035.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/building%20stuff/IMAG0036.jpg

I have no idea which ones to use. The blue ones are the FIT brand I got from PORTS machine shop. The rubber ones I got from NAPA. The front and rear seals I have the choice of cork or rubber like I mentioned in the prior post.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/building%20stuff/IMAG0033.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/building%20stuff/IMAG0030.jpg


Set the timing to ZERO degrees with the #1 piston all the way in the back to the left
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/building%20stuff/IMAG0032.jpghttp://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/building%20stuff/IMAG0031.jpg

[akram]

Use the good ones from ports for the intake. Be sure to use a good one for the head as well. I prefer the rubber ones for the front and rear main seal. I use cork for the valve covers. Now these are my preferences. People have a lot o opinions on gaskets. And you will get a million different suggestions, opinions and combinations. You just got to research and use what you think is best. I may have time one evening next week to get out there but I'm not going to promise.

[akram]

I just realized the front seal you were referring to wasn't the main seal. Use the rubbers ones though.

[AKMark]

#1 back and to the left? Should be front and right as you look at it. Here's a diagram.

676

[ak_petey]

that would explain why #8 fires on the zero mark too.

[AKMark]

#8 shouldn't fire on the zero, but should fire shortly afterward. With a distributor, 2 cylinders cannot fire at the same time.

[78calico]

Wher did you get that diagram mark. It's completeley wrong.

........O........
4 ..............8
3 ..............7
2 ..............6
1 ..............5

[AKMark]

Ummm....No.

I have reverified it and that's the EXACT same pattern I've found now on at least thirty different Chevy 454 diagrams. Here's another one from Alldatacollision.

677

[AKMark]

Fords go up one side then up the other. Chevy's and Dodges and most of the others don't.

This also is the same as a 350, 6.2, 305 and pretty much every Chevy V8 ever.

[78calico]

That would explain why it looks so wrong LOL.
Every manual I own is for a Ford. i don't play with the "Off Brands".

[ChevyKev]

Mark's info is accurate.
1,3,5,7 front to rear on drivers side
2,4,6,8, front to rear on pass side

firing order 18436572 - now I have to change my password!

[AKMark]

Ford just started over with the number when they added the 2nd bank.

I had issues remembering the Ford numbering system when I worked at Seekins.

Off brand, ha ha!

[ak_petey]

somehow I am glad I didnt plop down that manifold last night. now to set it right.

I still am wondering about the manifold restriction inserts. are they necessary?

---------- Post added at 01:15 pm ---------- Previous post was at 01:03 pm ----------

called PORTS machine. they said use the ones they gave me, it wouldnt realy matter either way. Oh, and throw away the front and rear seals. (use RTV silicone, the high temp blue stuff will work)
The restriction plates are not necessary, just to help warm things up a little faster.

[AKMark]

Use the restriction inserts, up here it will make a difference.

This stuff is easy bud. If you can tackle putting big springs up front, you can handle this.

[ak_petey]

so... there are two rods per cylinder. not sure how to tell which one is the one to watch for the correct position

---------- Post added at 03:27 pm ---------- Previous post was at 03:23 pm ----------

Of the cylinder

[AKMark]

TDC #1 will be the #1 piston at the very top, and valves closed.

[ak_petey]

TDC?

[AKMark]

Top Dead Center......Maybe you shouldn't touch that sucker till someone can lend you a hand.......

Guess we'll just have to give you an engine education!

In my opinion, hands on learning is the best, so we'll get there.

I just need to get mine done first.

[ak_petey]

So the manifold took a little while to get done but it is done. finally.
The front and rear gasket took more RTV silicone than I thought. Good thing I bought two. When I put the manifold on after the RTV gaskets were squeezed out, I found that there was a pretty large gap still. So I had to GLOB it on the second time. No gap :)

While putting the intake manifold bolts on, I dropped one in the distributor hole :clap:
I spent the next 30 minutes fishing it out with a magnet. Having an Aluminum manifold was nice, the block- not so nice with my magnet fishing pole. After 30 minutes it was out. I immediately plugged up the holes after that incident
I then torqued the bolts in the proper order 15 lbs the first time, 25 lbs the 2nd time around. Gotta torque them down one more time after I get it up to operating temperatures.

Placed the distributor on shortly after, and here are pics:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/building%20stuff/IMAG0040.jpghttp://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/building%20stuff/IMAG0039.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/building%20stuff/IMAG0038.jpghttp://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/building%20stuff/IMAG0037.jpg

[ak_petey]

Got the water pump on! I think I spent most of my time searching for the bolts. Turned out I set them back in the holes in the old water pump. Go figure.

Attempted to get the new power steering pump mounted, but I could not get the old pump out of the reservoir. The engine compartment fire must have really sealed the deal on that pump and reservoir! My attempts ended up damaging the reservoir so I will just return the pump for a pump with a reservoir mounted already. So I had to order one, NAPA said the pump and reservoir is not a stock item they carry.... ?? ....oh well. I can't work on it until next Thursday anyway.

*I am thinking about just putting the air pump set up on the back burner for now. The old unit is all burnt up and I can imagine it will cost some money to replace it. At this point I dont see a reason to put it on there now. maybe later I want to run some kind of air setup.

So next Thursday/weekend:


I plan on pulling off the rest of the remaining hummer tires off of my parts truck and putting my 33 inch rollers on there (they hold air better). With this I can roll the parts truck in and out of the garage when I need to! or on a trailer to take it to warm places to gut it for goodies.
Beadlock rings should be ready and cut out by next Thursday as well, Then I will proceed to mount the tractor tires :lol:. Ill be sure to post axle and frame height.
pick up power steering pump and reservoir, new starter. Then mount them up.
Gas tank removal, set up the inline fuel pump. Where would be a good spot?
Possibly get some assistance on wiring, carb setup, starter hooked up and eliminating the EFI wiring mess I got in there.

[ak_petey]

S0000.. I have a few other project distractions I need to get out of the way here before I start back up on my k5 build, but here is the major part of my laundry list:

The motor, time and money is what is really holding me back. a few more parts on the motor and I can get it running under its own power. the only problem is that I am stretching its wheel base, so my drivelines will not work! The rest of the blazer build is just a couple weekends of fabrication and swapping parts. Close, but still far away !!

on the list to buy/get made:


f/r drivelines $1000
RCV longfields $2000
beadlock rings $250
35 spline outer hubs $200
beadlock ring hardware: $ ?
-256 bolts (3/8)
-512 washers
-256 nylon threaded nuts
-lots of locktight
-good friends to help me bolt them on and torque down the hardware on the beadlocks! wink wink wink


looks like I will be hounding my supervisors for some overtime! hopefully before school starts up again.

[ak_petey]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0090.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0088.jpg


Not sure what to go with next on putting stuff on. Do I need some sort of vacuum line to the hydroboost? not sure how this is all going to work. doesnt the TH400 have some sort of vacuum line to it as well?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0087.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0086.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0085.jpg

---------- Post added at 10:42 pm ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 pm ----------

could use a hand/advice :)

I got plans to put a different blower box on as soon as I pull it in a warm garage, (that isnt happening this weekend)
put the manual crank window doors on
put on some parts as money permits me to. What goes on next?

[AKMark]

No vacuum to hydroboost systems.

Yes, you need a vacuum line to the T-400 so it knows when to shift since you don't have kickdown linkage.

[88XJ]

give me a call when you are in a warm garage and I can come out take a look and give some advice

[akcowboy76]

I would put a 4 or 5 speed stick in and eliminat that whole vacuum mess.

[ak_petey]

don- The blazer is in a warm garage at the moment. its not going anywhere soon because its on blocks! still awaiting beadlock rings to be delivered.
brandon- I will think about a manual transmission when this th400 goes KAPUT.

[ak_petey]

I got a few pulleys installed on my 454. found some plugs to plug up vacuum holes in the intake, and located some 350 parts I am going to try and reuse.
I have more of an idea what direction I am going now. Don helped clear a few things up I had questions about too. Also had to phone in for tech help with Kevin. Thanks!

I decided to go with the serpentine belt setup that the 454 originally had. I was going to try the use the 'V' groove belt setup like my 1987 350 motor used, but the crank pulleys were not the same. I will just bite the bullet and plan on the stock configuration just to keep it simple. unless I come across something cheap and efficient. Next time I get my hands dirty I plan on installing exhaust manifolds, rigging up some coolant lines, power steering lines, brake system set up (hydroboost), get my new heater box/ controls and dash back in.
Engine work is not my expertise! Cant wait to be done with it so I can start modifying the suspension and body!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0099.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0098.jpg

---------- Post added at 10:43 pm ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 pm ----------

oh, I forgot to mention tractor tires might be mounted next update as well!

[RedneckYankee]

just curious why your going with the RCV longfields they are BEEF dont get me wrong but with a 35 spline inner and outer alloy shaft with a greasable joint ive never broken a shaft, granted i have a v6 but i think the RCVs are a waste of money that could be better spent else where.

[ak_petey]

With a 454 pushing a little more than stock , 46x18 ags, locked f/r, about 4500 lbs (maybe more with gear).... I figure I will be ahead of the game. I'll spend close to as much in inner and outer chromoly shafts and ctm joints. Plus I will have better turning w/o as much binding.


I was thinkin why not build it with the best parts, and have a good warranty. Plus a well built d60 will hold up to a Rockwell.... But lighter! It's also an investment. I appreciate the concern, does anyone else agree/disagree?

[AKMark]

With 46" ags, a healthy 454, lockers. I'd probably go with Longs as well.

[akram]

I don't know enough about the RCV to comment on them. I do know that using 35 spline chromoly's will be stronger than a Rockwell.

[RedneckYankee]

first of all CTMs are over rated for the money spent on them (200$ a joint) a Yukon super joint would suffice. when you get in the realm of huse tires and huge power normally what fails on a D60 is usually the ring and pinion, tendacy to shear teeth from deflection. just my $ .02

[akram]

Yes. CTM's are not worth the money. And the ears on the shaft are not the same metal as the shaft itself. they are a softer metal. But if you go chromo then it is the same metal. The weight is a big downfall to me. Just the center section is over 250lbs. With the type of terrain we have that will get you in trouble with out the right tires. ANd I'm not talking about just tall they need to be way wide and have softer sidewalls. Which Ag's do not. Ag's will dig they wont float.

---------- Post added at 01:52 pm ---------- Previous post was at 01:48 pm ----------

Heck go with AAM 11.5 rear

[ak_petey]

floatation tires ... have you seen the weight on each of those? its ridiculous

[ak_petey]

Put the blazer on some rollers and rolled it out of the garage, tarped it, and got the parts truck in !
Things to strip off: tranny, tcase, brake hydro boost setup, interior air delivery system, grill, the rest is extra.

---------- Post added at 02:01 am ---------- Previous post was at 02:00 am ----------

strip party next weekend! whos coming!?
that sounded bad.

[ak_petey]

Blazer has all the parts that are supposed to go in ready. This when's task is to get the hydro boost and heater fan and box in . Hoping to finish up the motor soon!

[ak_petey]

What is this hole in the middle?
can I plug it?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0101.jpg

[AKMark]

I want to say coolant temp probe, but as I've never seen the port normally used on a 454, don't quote me on that.

[ak_petey]

I think you might be right. I have something that could resemble that laying around in my "burnt mystery parts bin"

[ak_petey]

anyone got a diagram to a 7.4 TBI chevy 454? Im not running the air conditioning and air pump.
I am only running : power steering, crank, water pump, and alternator.

On the update: bead lock rings still not in, RCV shafts not in, buncha other stuff IN.

I did get the hydroboost brake system set up and installed. Just needing to bleed it. And I got the heater box and blower motor installed. I went with the non air conditioning lever set up. My parts truck is currently at my girlfriends house where her little brother and dad are pulling the diesel motor for a project. (it was a give away).
Ill be getting my parts truck back from them soon enough to get my air vents and other stuff to finish it. Next week I plan on helping out with the trailer build and maybe recruiting some help to finish my motor build! I believe I have all the parts to run it. Minus the wiring harness.
ak_petey---> :poke: <---ChevyKev

---------- Post added at 07:52 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 pm ----------

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0102.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0108.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0110.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0121.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0152.jpg
the old blazer's heater box was cracked. I decided to go with the parts truck's box instead. The following pics are what I did today.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0158.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0159.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0161.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0162.jpg
The new motor and the gigantic valve covers made little room back by the fire wall. I just cut into it and hammered away. then applied a lot of silicone. It has a pretty blue color to it :)

---------- Post added at 07:54 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:52 pm ----------

i forgot to get pics of the hydro boost brake system but its on there. Ill have to prove it next time i am out at the garage.

[AKMark]

Your heater box looks a lot like mine, except I used black silicone.

[ak_petey]

Yep!

[ak_petey]

A better picture of some space cleared behind the valve covers
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0163-1.jpg

---------- Post added at 01:09 am ---------- Previous post was at 01:08 am ----------

Any ideas of how I could run the pulley setup here?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0206.jpg

---------- Post added at 01:10 am ---------- Previous post was at 01:09 am ----------

the air pump/ac compressor was just set there for showing that the belt needed to be shortened.
(not using the compressor)

still looking for ideas where to route a serpentine belt.

---------- Post added at 01:22 am ---------- Previous post was at 01:10 am ----------

Brake booster and brake pedal set up:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0202.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0201.jpg

Intake manifold:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0196.jpg


Carb. gasket choices?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0193.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0194.jpg


I need one more exhaust doughnut like this:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0195.jpg

More WRONG parts, 1993 was the year of the truck + 94 was the production of the motor + converting from TBI to Carburetor = lots of mistakes on parts. good thing I am keeping a list.
here is the incorrect thermostat:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0191.jpg

This is the distrubutor I went with, is the top supposed to be exposed ? is there a cover for it?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0207.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0204.jpg

oooooooooh.. .. and this came in friday! (I got a lot more parts that came in too, will post as I install)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0181.jpg

[ak_petey]

For some reason, Wayne (BigBadJeep) cannot post on my thread. Is this a standard setting?
anyway, he posted this to my private messages:
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

big_bad_jeep (http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/members/4875-big_bad_jeep)

pullys


hey i cant post on ur build but on ur pulleys u have the belt tensioner and the idler pulley back wards the tensioner goes at the top


I SURE HOPE 2010 IS BETTER THEN LAST YEAR.




---------- Post added at 07:18 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:15 pm ----------

I dont think I can switch the pulley system around so that the tensioner is on top. the only position the tensioner can be is fixed.
hmm.. makes me wonder if i can turn the bracket upside down so the tensioner is at the top. .. hmm..
ill have to check on that next time I am out at the garage.

[AKMark]

How close is it if you route the belt under your idler pulley instead of bypassing it like you are doing now?

[ak_petey]

There would be a lot of slack still. I need to figure out a route with out the a/c - air pump.I got a non groove pulley an a grooves one to mess around with tonight and get some measurements for the belt

[AKMark]

Really? From the belt pics if you route the belt under the upper idler pulley instead of over and inside the tension pulley instead of outside. It should take out a majority of your problem. If it doesn't, go and get a shorter belt.

[ak_petey]

I tried to make it work without the A/C-aIR pump. the belt was too short. In my searching for a decent route I noticed that the alternator didnt have enough grooves on its pulley. sigh... this is getting frustrating. Im calling SUMMIT tomorrow, ordering the correct aftermarket brackets to convert to the basic bones setup.

Oh ! bead lock rings came in. they kinda changed the design a little. Im not terribly disappointed, but oh well. I got em. They still look neat. :)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0208.jpg

[78calico]

What the heck did they do to the skulls? It took a LOT of time to get them looking right. I'm dissapointed.

[ak_petey]

it looks like they have a weird mustache.

---------- Post added at 12:53 am ---------- Previous post was at 12:53 am ----------

the nose kinda looks like a set of booger balls.

---------- Post added at 12:56 am ---------- Previous post was at 12:53 am ----------

Ole- you did an awesome job designing your file. Its hard to follow greatness I suppose.

---------- Post added at 12:56 am ---------- Previous post was at 12:56 am ----------

:mad:too bad they couldnt do it right.

[78calico]

I went back and checked out the guy's thread on Pirate. He used the the original eye's but moved them and cut and pasted the rest from his design. It looks nothing like my design. If I had payed for it I'd be extremely pissed off.

[ak_petey]

I called them today and the guy I need to talk to is at King of the Hammers for a week.

On another note:
-all the junk yards around here either do not want to part with their pulley systems, or they do not have 454's.
-Summit does not offer a bracket kit to eliminate the a/c-air compressor unit. I called around to other places but they were closed by the time I got around to it. Being in Alaska is tough to get a hold of east bound businesses in the states.
-While I was at Sentry Hardware after I got off work I was piecing together some parts to make my pulley bolts and pulleys fit tighter (make shift bushings- Will post up the ideas when I install them (nylon hose/fuel hoses)) I was talking to a very knowledgeable employee there about my current stuck status on my motor build- he is a master at rigging up stuff and loaded with helpful ideas, hence the nylon hose idea was his. He suggested to use the a/c-air compressor unit housing and gut the insides so that I can utilize a pulley in the stock position. I will be taking it apart next time i am out there and posting what I did to make it work here soon.

[ak_petey]

Well... couldn't find anyone today that sells after market brackets. so ill do things the old fashion way. fabricating my new bracket tomorrow night, I got all the dimensions tonight- should be easy.
If any one needs a bracket template to eliminate the a/c air pump on a 93 chevy let me know. ill get copy to ya.

[AKMark]

Why don't you just get a belt in the correct size?

[ak_petey]

The angle on the top pulley to the tensioner is too much.
Under tension, The tensioner will rub on the belt with the current setup.
I got a nifty idea to fix this

[ak_petey]

heating system in TRAGDOR finished,
interestingly painted glove box door,
beadlock rings in the back of my truck,
anxiously awaiting tractor tire mounting,
impatiently awaiting for axle seals so I can install RCV shafts

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/for%20sale/IMAG0219.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/for%20sale/IMAG0218.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/for%20sale/IMAG0215.jpg http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/for%20sale/IMAG0220.jpg

[ak_petey]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0225.jpg
i posted in the i spy section, but I wanted to make sureI got some comments on this one. I think the pulley is too big honestly, I say this because there is not much surface area of the belt on the tensioner. I think this may lead to slipping. Anyone agree/disagree? If I keep the belt and go to a smaller pulley I am sure I can get more surface area covered on the tensioner.

Or drill a new hole and mount it further towards the drivers side, or just get a longer belt and call it good.

---------- Post added at 11:41 pm ---------- Previous post was at 11:41 pm ----------

this is the 95 and 5/8" belt

[ak_petey]

The closest I could find online is this picture/diagram. but the A/C pump and Alternator are in different positions. Has anyone seen my diagram setup anywhere?
691

[ak_petey]

click on picture for larger image

[ChevyKev]

The diagram is correct - in your picture you're missing the top pulley as well. You need a longer belt.

[ak_petey]

got a couple things done today in 3 hours. I had to make time happen today. busy busy busy...
-tranny linkages hooked back up
-power steering main lines hooked up. not hydro assist yet.
-I found a belt that FIT!! 98.25 inches for the record.
-put the glove box, dash cover and dash pad all back in after taking out all the extra air ducting stuff out.

Tomorrow I am hoping to get the bead locks welded up and on, and the R1 tires mounted on the wheels!
Still awaiting some axle seals from MAD 4WD so I can install the RCV shafts.
Plans on hooking up the old Y pipe from the original 454 donor truck-just need exhaust doughnuts... Those are SPENDY for such a tiny couple of circles!!!!!
still thinking about swapping out the 58 " springs for 56 " springs to get a better angle on the rear shackles... might need some different poly bushings too.
Its all coming together! I presume it will be finished near the end of spring time!

And may I present to you, the belt that fit!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/thebeltthatfit9825.jpg

[akcowboy76]

looks like you need more contact on the crank pulley you might get some slippage with this last setup

[ak_petey]

:mad:
Dang. Try and try again .....

[ak_petey]

Got the right belt for the second time :confused: hehe. forgot to take a pic. I took brandon's advice and mike's advice and routed the serpentine belt around the crank so that it had more surface are on it and made sure that the belt went under the idler pulley up on top.


put in the exhaust Y pipe from the 93/94 mystery donor truck and found out that I had to notch the frame :eek:. So, I notched it. the exhaust fit, and I havent braced it............
- yet. Just posting this tid bit of info so that i remember to reinforce that area when it gets warmer out. I am not allowed to do any welding inside now that my parents have renters. So this is actually more motivation for me to get into a house.

*I have been approved for a lease on a $160,000 home- havent picked one out yet. Looking for one with a decent sized garage. one bay, 550-600 square feet minimum. pm me for any details or leads on decent homes! looking to move at the end of summer/fall.

Anyway, back to the build.
After putting in the Y pipe I noticed that I needed to remove the Y pipe in order to put the torque converter cover back on.. :banghead:
I looked around briefly and couldnt find my torque converter bolts, I know they are around somewhere! I decided to wrap it up and head back to my apt. because I have a ton of reading for school to get through.

might possibly get the tractors and beadlocks on this week, supposed to reserve thrusday morning for electrical, ignition and other wiring stuff.

[ak_petey]

kevin came over and swapped harness's with me today for the blazer in exchange for my wiring harness and a transmission and t case plus some cash.
going to pick up an alternator harness plug tomorrow, some extra wires, and order a different power steering box from PCS motor sports. (one that has hydro boost)
I returned some items today to NAPA and got a little refund which was nice! It should help with the funding for the new steering pump.

I finally got my MAD4WD axle seals in today! I have the green light to assemble my RCV shafts!

[ak_petey]

Ill start off with some good news. Y pipe is in, torque conv. bolts in, flex plate/dust shield on.:nerd:
I had to modify the dust shield a little to make it fit. apparently the older th400 transmissions and the EFI 454 motor needs a little trimming. here is a picture of what I trimmed off the dust shield to make it fit:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0258.jpg

Bad news: still no tractor tires on. me frustrated with time i dont have to tinker with tragdor lately.

I got a plug for the alternator, Kevin helped me out with the wiring harness the other day, but i think i need him back out to tell me which wires go where again and research a little on what wires from the alternator harness go to what. Its a 93 wire harness clip that has 4 prongs on it. I got a harness clip and it has three wires coming out of it. (see pic). Not sure on where those go. should be simple, but i dont have access to a diagram at the moment.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0263.jpg

This is the connector that came with the wiring harness Kevin brought over and installed (accept for the alternator part as shown) it is just a two prong harness for an older alternator.
So I have the new harness clip with 3 wires and the old harness clip with 2 wires.

I got some figuring to do or maybe someone might have an answer, I am retarded when it comes to wiring and engine stuff. (which explains why this part is taking so long!!)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0262.jpg





yuck, more issues.
I ordered a psc steering pump and it came with a reservoir. It is a hydro boost pump, Im not sure how this all goes together. ugh. I wouldnt be so frustrated if I have more time to tinker with it but.. yeah thats not available.
I need to come up with a bracket set up for the reservoir since the kit I ordered did not come with one. grrr. looking for ideas on how to mount this thing up!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0271.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0268.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0266.jpg

---------- Post added at 01:40 am ---------- Previous post was at 01:29 am ----------

so the next steps are to:
get tractor tires, beadlocks and wheels finished/mounted
get axle seals installed (mad4wd seals) and rcv shafts installed. order some 35 spline manual hubs or should i go with slugs? (non manual/selectable)
get wiring completed.
get motor ready for ignition and primed.
get steering system hooked all the way up. bleed system. (psc steering pump, psc box, ram assist)

I think I ll have to call in a few favors

[ak_petey]

After quite a bit of drilling and quick cutting with the grinder's cutting wheel, I came up with this bracket system for the reservoir:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0281.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0285.jpg

I cut and did a little tack welding on the bracket that the power steering pump bolted on so that the power steering bolt holes on the back side were exposed and accessible to the lines that are to go into them. I just need to figure out the schematics of what line from the hydrobooster goes into the PSC power steering pump, and which ones go to the mini cooler and gear box. If anyone has a diagram I would appreciate it much much much much much.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0261-1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0286.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0285.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/IMAG0284.jpg

---------- Post added at 05:58 pm ---------- Previous post was at 05:56 pm ----------

oh, and kevin came out again and helped me finish the wiring as we had a prior deal :) thanks kevin!

[ak_petey]

man time is TIGHT lately.
started to wrench tonight on the beadlocks, got all 32 bolts lined up and ready for torquing to 15 lbs.... and ran out of thread on the bolts i bought. 3 hours, gone! doh!
everything should be right there, i have to find time to put it all together. I am definitely thinking of calling in sick one of these days to get this project moving on! So this weekend I believe I will bribe my roomate/neighbors with beer to help me install the beadlocks with the right bolts -while i over see the operation. I will be torquing them down myself - oh and fyi and the beer will come after the job is done,
I think I might get on a homework assignment/paper shortly after.

on order are some milemarker selectable stainless steel hubs for my RCV shafts.
I pulled the hubs apart and ... yeah, I think some bearing cleaning or replacement is in order! ill be buying some mineral spirits and a bucket to see if I can clean em up and still use them. The older WARN hubs were a PITA getting out. MileMarker is MUCH easier to remove hubs.

It has been a while since I tore down the hubs ( I actually had to call mark to help me remember) . .. I was looking for caliper bolts when I should have been looking for a ALLEN head bolt. I figured the rest out and realized how simple it should have been. I love those old king pin dana 60s!

my deadhead fuel re router is in and I need to get that installed soon too. I do not have a camera atm, but i will post up some recent pictures of the new installs to come.

[akram]

Peter you have it all wrong. With that many bolts the beer needs to come before, during and after.

[ak_petey]

haha. i think i need a beer. I attempted to mount the beadlock up tonight, found two leaks on the ring weld. ... man, i cant catch a break. It definitely needs some patch welding in some spots, I thought it would be an issue when I picked up the wheels after they had the rings welded on but decided to give it a chance. I gambled and lost. now I have to weld up the pin holes some how now. and I do not have a welder that can run low amperage to fix it (hence why I sourced out the job in the first place).

incoming PM kevin!

---------- Post added at 10:07 pm ---------- Previous post was at 09:41 pm ----------

question. beadlock ring bolts- I have heard you tighten them to 15-20 lbs.
anyone hear differently?

[ChevyKev]

I almost suggested you mount thetire on rims here in case that happened as there was no way for me to check them without tires...

[ak_petey]

you can see small cracks and pin holes in all the rims. im positive there will be more leaks. I used a good amount of silicone... dang it

[ak_petey]

RCV shafts finally in! I can finally stop talking about doing it because I found/made time to do it.
I cant find my computer cord to upload and post pictures atm. The shafts went in very easy! I could not be happier with the simplicity of the installation. Except for: (see below)

Upon tearing down the hubs I found that the retaining "snap ring" from the old WARN hubs was seized and broken somehow in the hub itself. This made for a PITA hub removal. Took about 2 hours before I could pry and prod the retaining snap ring out. Tools involved: picks (all have a new shape now), broken flat head screwdriver (new tool i guess), channel lock needle nose pliers, hammer, and PB blaster (I think this saved the day). I am glad to have made my decision to go with MileMarker hubs like I said in the past post. They are much easier to remove!!!

So after about 5 years the outer bearings were a bit rusty :whistle:
I tried to clean them up with mineral spirits, PB blaster, and WD-40. Things were going well as I kept spinning them, but the rust finally broke free enough to let the ball bearings fall out. I guess that explained the extra retaining rings floating around in the hubs... I will definitely be more attentive to my bearings in the future after water crossings! Having MileMarker selectable hubs will make this much easier too. It was probably time for new bearings anyway. These were 5 years old, been through water, 36", 44" tires and 39 inch tires. :cool: The inner bearings seemed to be just fine though! I checked them for movement (not much) and they still had plenty of grease surrounding them.

next on the to do list is the wheels/beadlocks/tires. then deadhead fuel system/holley carb install.
I might need some knowledge/tech information on the carb stuff. Its all new to me!

[ak_petey]

new bearings are in!
hubs re-assembled!
awaiting milemarker hubs!

still working on beadlocks and leaks that come with them. Getting there slowly.
Any tips on bolting down the beadlocks ? I am going to used a #### ton of silicone for sure.
looking for suggestions, bolt tightening patterns that work best etc. ..

[ak_petey]

All beadlocks are bolted up with a whole TUBE of silicone in between the rings. After a few attempts trying to get them mounted up and hold air yesterday, I read the directions with Kevin ....yeah, 24 hours to cure.:doh:

What was interesting is that before I discovered the 24 hour curing time mentioned above, the tire I was working on held air up to 10 lbs before it leaked when I aired to 15lbs. (from the rings, not welds). I am crossing my fingers in hopes that the welds are going to hold air!! :pray:

So on friday or saturday I plan on making a trip out to kevins where the tires are at and airing them up... to 10lbs MAX (personal preference). I believe the max psi is 25 psi. I will double check next time I am out there.

[ak_petey]

Progress Pics:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0420011251.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0419012325a.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0419012325.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0416012225.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0416012224.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0416012210a.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0416012210.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0416012204.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0416012203.jpg

[ak_petey]

UPDATE photos!!
All tires hold air except the front passenger. It is waiting for the silicone to cure again, but in place and not supporting any weight of the vehicle.
These things are huge. They measure 42 inches maybe more, I eyeballed the tape measure. all at 10 psi, I have much fender trimming to do!
MileMarker hubs came in, installed them in 10 minutes, easy.

now I just have to remember where the rest of my lug nuts are!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0423012314.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0423012315.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0423012312.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0423012311.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0423012313.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0423012341.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0424010001.jpg

[ak_petey]

well here is an update:
Tires:
the tires leak air!!! but I am going to put inner tubes in them and leave it at that. the only problem is I can only find 3 inner tubes!:myself: so this weekend I will be hoping to pull the tires off and put some tubes in. yay!! im excited. kevin, do you remember how many times I mounted those beadlocks? I lost track.

Fuel system:
770 CFM offroad truck avenger carb is on the manifold, just put on my throttle cable bracket, still looking for a throttle cable. My EFI throttle cable is TOO LONG, and I broke the square tab thingy that makes it stay in the square hole. Still need to get my deadhead fuel pressure regulator on. .. ill get there.. im just slow.

I started tearing down my front clip today as well and took some measurements as to where I am going to cut it down to size :) I removed all the lights and I am planning on running flood lights for my main lights. (offroad only vehicle here).

Cooling:
I found this SWEET double electric fan at the offroad lion's swap meet. I will be fabricating a mount for it as I will not be running a fan off my motor ! I can take the flexlite fan back now :)
So before I start cutting away at my front clip ill have to take my radiator from the 6.2 diesel parts truck to a radiator shop and get it pressure tested and flushed. I gathered a bunch of radiators I had laying around to exchange/recycle and maybe get a decent discount at a radiator shop tomorrow. Any good recommendations for Fairbanks shops?

---------- Post added at 11:06 pm ---------- Previous post was at 10:50 pm ----------
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0603012248.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0603012250.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0609012117.jpg

I love that little 3/8" air ratchet, so far it has made the job easier!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0609012118.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0609012150.jpg

And this is the mock up before I mount everything and then start the cutting and welding!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0609012327.jpg

[ak_petey]

havent gotten anywhere on the blazer because I have been working my butt off on the dodge lately (DP RAMMIT (http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/threads/10829-DP-Rammit)). But that project is coming to a close for the time being and I will be giving tragdor the attention soon.
I received my throttle cable, and some fuel line fittings to finish setting up my fuel system. The guys at Summit are pretty awesome, they keep a record of your order and know exactly what your build project will need next. They also have something worked out for shipping to Alaska so it is cheaper than normal! :)

So my next thing on tragdor is to:

finish the fuel system,
dump all the right oil in/additives to break in the motor,
modify the front clip (narrowing),
install radiator/hoses,
install instal battery and electrical,
truss front axle,
install ram assist and weld up brackets to steering arms/axle,
remove 58" front springs,
install 56"springs (rear hangar bracket is still too angled,
needs to be more upright),
re-install inner tubes (tractor tires arent holding air too well, they will stay aired up for a trail ride though)

Thats a lot :P

[ak_petey]

when I get back to working on tragdor this week, I want to truss the axle. The only problem is that the axle is bent slightly. It has not been noticeable while driving it in the past but Iam sure it is eating away at bearings. I was reading up on pirate4x4 and i saw someone mention chaining the axle to an I-Beam and using a hydraulic jack and rose bud to straighten it out, then trussing it. Does anyone have an I beam I can borrow? or bring my axle to?

[ak_petey]

some guy called me up last night and said he had cash for my springs shocks. so today I pulled the rear springs and shocks, sold em for a cool $500. :)
after that I had to put the blazer on something... I guess this was as good as time as any to swap in the 63 inch springs! yep yep! I did that today.
pics below!
ahoy!

The springs went RIGHT to the end of the frame. I used my Offroad Design shackles I bought a while back on Craigslist. I didnt have the patience to drill holes and bolt up. so I welded the sucker on. Ill weld the top and bottom portion of the plate when I can pull the blazer outside at a later date.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0728215056.jpg

the springs mounts on the axle were a little wider than the frame mounts... look see here.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0728214847.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0728214826.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0728214754.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0728214722.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0728214707.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0728214632.jpg

[ak_petey]

crap, i forgot to block the tires before I left. I wonder how long air will hold until the rims are sitting on the tires...... :doh:

[ak_petey]

halfway done!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0730201916.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0730201856.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0730201828.jpg

[ak_petey]

Bent axle fix and truss (http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/threads/10886-bent-axle-fix) (follow link)

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0726160710.jpg (http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/threads/10886-bent-axle-fix)

[ak_petey]

started on the spring mounts today, got some headway.
Don helped me drill through 1 inch plate for the spring top plates that lasted 3 hours or more tonight. I feel bad taking up so much time when he has so little time here in fairbanks while on leave. The most I can do now is say thank you and promise to lend a hand on a "few" of your rigs when you get back. Thanks!

Saw these in CRAWL magazine, Im interested :)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0801163005.jpg

Here is a little more work I did on the axle to bolt up the springs:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0802134756.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0802180425.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0802180432.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0802181536.jpg

The picture above is to show the cutting wheel comparison of the disc before and after. The bigger one is definitely larger, but the smaller one cut through the entire 2.5" round stock .... and I was cutting with it earlier today as well!

I definitely found my favorite cutting disc!:cool:

[ak_petey]

didnt measure right on the top plates. starting over. :(
I removed the overload spring on the front springs and the springs are toast. They have a bad bend in them, well, a bend I am not comfortable with. I have a set of 56" springs I am going to use instead. More springs in the pack and thinner!
the u bolts I ordered 3",,,, were 3.25 inches when i realized it..
nothing in that area is going well at the moment!

So I bolted up the axles last night to get an idea of where the blazer would sit. Due to measuring and drilling wrong on the top plates, I decided to retrofit the top plates by cutting the holes larger with the torch. This is just temporary.

Results: The rear definitely needs to come UP. I am going to drop my rear shackles a bit to see where that takes me. If not I will make a spring bracket for the front to drop and give me 3-4 inches.

It was dark and late and crappy lighting in the garage. beware- of crappy pictures.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0805012548.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0805010508.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0805010359.jpg

[ak_petey]

taking apart and cleaning up my 56" spring packs tonight and painting them and installing them with the new top plates wayne helped me drill out, making longer rear shackles for the rear springs as well. will post up later tonight :)

[ak_petey]

so I got the axle back under the blazer today and man I am glad that part of this mess is done with.

I need to tweak the suspension a little with some different hardware (bolts), and some urethane bushing spacers.... like a urethane washer. the hangars are wider than the leaf spring and it doesnt look right because it "bows in" to the leaf spring from the hangar. or should I just bend the hangar brackets inward so they mount flush with the leaf spring?

I also need to get some longer brake lines. I did a suspension droop test with the high lift and I get a whopping 14 inches of DROOP:yes: . yeah, it was that much!!!! leaf spring droop.. :cool:
It was a combination of 56 inch chevy spring pack and 58 inch spring pack i got from the junk yard. I kept most of the 56 inch chevy pack because it had more narrower leafs.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0807222656.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0808195012.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0808220237.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0808223015.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0808231642.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0808233557.jpg

---------- Post added at 11:04 pm ---------- Previous post was at 10:57 pm ----------

I want to give a shout out to thank wayne (fix_it) and don (88xj) for helping me out with drilling/ using their press ! and mark (ak_mark)for offering :)

[ak_petey]

where did i leave off?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0809162308.jpg


dash conversion:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0811225101.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0815220941-1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0814225239-1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0815220902.jpg

I have quickly filled up the toggle switch holes since. they control radio, wipers, fuel pump, electric fan, dash cluster gauges, and something else i cant remember.. (this was a while ago)

---------- Post added at 07:30 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:30 pm ----------

yes, I am keeping the GT wheel. HATERS!!

---------- Post added at 07:31 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:30 pm ----------

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0813165349.jpg

Tried to pass this off as a wheeling trip, Mel didnt respond. It was worth a try!!!

---------- Post added at 07:34 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:31 pm ----------

made my own bump stops until i can bring myself to buy air bumps.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0817185124.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0817185145.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0817185210.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0817185218.jpg

OLD BUMP STOPS:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0817185227.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0817190722.jpg

TA DAAA!! dont laugh.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0817212513.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0817235606.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0817235536.jpg

the bump stops are to protect my pitman arm from up travel on the springs.

---------- Post added at 07:36 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:34 pm ----------

for future traction bars:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0817191916.jpg

cleaned up the front hangar mounts:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0823151359.jpg

NArrowing begins!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0824165409.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0823151413.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0825144640.jpg

---------- Post added at 07:39 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:36 pm ----------

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0824222118.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0824220515.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0827213007.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0827212851.jpg


diff cover:
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0824222242.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0824222222.jpg

yes that is a 1.25" bolt I used for the filler plug.

---------- Post added at 07:40 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 pm ----------

funny story, I pulled off the protective strip on the door panel and when it came off it pulled the dent out of my drivers door! score!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0826224124.jpg

---------- Post added at 07:42 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:40 pm ----------

tranny cooler lines, these are BEEFY! i questioned needing to use a radiator to cool the fluid with these things!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0903223136.jpg

I am kidding of course.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0903215506.jpg

AkMARK, ChevyKev, Wayne (fix it) has been a big help with technical questions lately. thanks guys!

---------- Post added at 07:44 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:42 pm ----------

when running a PSC hydro assist pump, a cooler is a must.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0830203401.jpg


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0830203319.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0830203337.jpg

---------- Post added at 07:45 pm ---------- Previous post was at 07:44 pm ----------

almost there guys, but the new semester is already started and I think it is nearly time to hang up the build for the winter.

[ak_petey]

the rear spring perches were a bit wide. cut the welds out and moved the perches inward. pretty easy job. The springs sit straight now and I wont have to worry about turning my springs into "S" shaped springs.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0915142744.jpg

I had a little more time on my hands (before and after work) and moved the rear shackles down about 2 inches and welded them back to the frame. it gave me a little lift in the rear. I think I will make some longer shackles and get another inch or two if I can get it on level ground to see if it needs to come up.

I also did some more hacking at the sheet metal.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0915142731.jpg

it seems that it always rains when I work on this thing outside. and on top of that its getting dark at night like the rest of the lower 48. productive but frustrating day.

[ak_petey]

reworked the front springs. .. I did not like the 58 inch springs sticking out forward so far... yeah yeah.. i know you told me so. you know who you are. It took about a year for it to settle in! Thick headed!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0930023801.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0929205556.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y62/ak_petey/blazer%20building/0930020607.jpg

[AKMark]

hahahahaha

[ak_petey]

Mark sure picked up on this quick. haha.

[ak_petey]

just doing some thinking. after I get some good use of the K5 this summer I am thinking about 4 linking the rear. I will have some extra coil springs from one of my dodges.
The front will remain leaf sprung for a while until I source out some coil overs. I wont do a 4 link in the rear until I have all the parts for the front. Im starting to collect parts :D

[Zukman]

You mite want to finish one before you tear it down again!

[ak_petey]

this will be a fall/winter build for 2012. :) plenty of time to test it all out!

[ak_petey]

still under the snow. and frozen. I re read through my thread and there is a lot to do yet. As soon as it warms up. I will remove the hack job front clip. Need to hook up with mark when it warms up and pull the front clip off the black suburban and use it to redo the front clip narrow job. I have a few things I will need to modify while the front clip is off anyway.


I plan on building the front core support first and securing the radiator before I start modifying the rest of the clip<--- this will be a big job!
my air blower box needs to be modified or the inner wall of the fender sheet metal needs to be trimmed up for the narrowing
The fenders: I am uncertain where it will be trimmed at this point because I changed the front springs and the axle sits in a different place.
I want to have a narrowed front end with as straight fenders as possible, while retaining the inner fenders for mud/water deflection. some trimming will be needed due to the narrowing of the fenders.
the rear will actually get a bob job. I need to do a repair job on the rear frame body mount. With the bob job on the chopping block, I would like to relocate the fuel tank in the bed and build a shelter/cover for it, or secure it in a safer place. This is to be determined when the bob job happens.
Drive lines will still need to be made. I have my old ones, but they are way too short now. I will need to made some out of square tubing, and after running the blazer offroad for a while I will determine if I want to have a doubler or not. Drivelines will be a temporary thing.
steering should be complete, just add fluids
motor needs some wires hooked up for the ignition stuff.. timing when I actually fire it up.
rear axle needs trussing, and traction bars.
bumpers from chevykev's truck farm will be reinstalled with a new mounting system.
lastly I want to make some half doors, no windows. I still have the spares sitting around. this mod is not so important as the others are.



just making this list has deterred any other projects or additions from happening or being planned this spring/summer. My ram should be wheelable as soon as spring hits so I wont miss a trail ride unless work interferes. ultimately I would still like to keep my blazer street legal, as everything still works. t drove actually very nicely before this build #2 has taken place. The tractor tires will just have to be swapped out :) my ram's 42's should fit comfortably underneath if needed.