In cab winch controller install

[Ronster]

After waiting for what seemed like weeks for these to get here, I had to start the install right after the delivery man left the door. It is a ready to install kit when it got here, but I wanted to make a few modifications along the way for ease of maintenace in the future.

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/gallery/files/3/5/8/dsc01537.jpg
This is the basic kit minus the hardware that came with it. The panel and switched were high quality, and the wire was way longer than what I needed for the jeep

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/gallery/files/3/5/8/dsc01539.jpg
A view from the back before I started hacking things up

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/gallery/files/3/5/8/dsc01540.jpg
After reading a few other sites installs, I decided to install bullet connectors just in case I have to remove the panel in the future. It wasnt really necessary because there was plenty of wire, but it allows for a cleaner install in the end.

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/gallery/files/3/5/8/dsc01541.jpg
The kit comes with instructions as well as a template for cutting out your panel opening. I removed the panel from the jeep to make things easier, and traced the template. I cut the inside of the lines with a dremel which worked out perfect. On jeeps, be careful if you mount your plate in this location. You need to stay as far left as possible to avoid hitting the metal brace behind the panel, and you cant go to high without risking catching the panel fastener. In this picture, I had about a 1/8 gap on the top and right side.

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/gallery/files/3/5/8/dsc01542.jpg
As you can see, its a pretty tight fit, expecially next to the panel screw hole, but it does fit. I elected to use rivets here instead of the nutserts included with the kit. I fugured if I cut a hole, its probably a permenant thing, so the panel would stay with the jeep, no need to remove it...

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/gallery/files/3/5/8/dsc01545.jpg
All mounted up and connected in the inside. This was where I made my big mistake and connected my panel power wire to the ignition accessory wire. I had to many amps pulling off the line due to my auto start and seat heaters already installed on this switch and I popped the fuse under the hood. A tirp to Schucks, and I was back on track. I ran a wire directly from the battery and installed a 20A fuse in line to the panel. Problem solved for good (hopefully :D)

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/gallery/files/3/5/8/dsc01546.jpg
I made another change to the wiring harness at the winch. Instead of using the disconnect option which came with the kit, I cut the terminals off and went with a regular hoop terminal. If you do this, make sure to install ther terminals with the insert end down to allow water to drain away from the wires to prevent corrosion.

http://www.arcticoffroad.com/forum/gallery/files/3/5/8/dsc01547.jpg
All installed (minus the last minute terminal movement as stated above on the red wire). You can see the 3 new wires connected to the solenoids. All winches are different, so make sure to break out a meter to make sure you get the right connections for your in and out signals. I mistakenly connected the ground to the handheld remote chassis ground and didnt have any power from the interior panel. Once that was corrected, it checked good and everything was buttoned up.

The total install time was about 2 hours. If I had done it when I wasnt tired and thinking straight, maybe an hour and a half. You have the option to continue to use the handheld remote if you want to, but now you dont have to drive with the remote sticking through the window and the cord getting wrapped around the steering wheel like someone I know :whistle:

[sevenslats]

That has to be the cleanest solenoid pack I've ever seen.
You need to use that pretty Jeep more.

Nice writeup by the way, that panel looks real good.
Warn M8000?

[Ronster]

yes sir, the Jackrabbit special! I did a little cleaning in there before I got started, it wasnt to bad though.

[Bulldog]

Could this switch panel be mounted next to my locker switch, similar to how this guy has these two switches mounted? Do you think it would be too far of a reach?

http://www.wanderingtrail.com/images/2003_TJ/Buildup/Locker_Override/fb7167e1.jpg

[Ronster]

I would say yes to the location, but you will want to measure just to be sure. The winch panel is 2.75" square.

I would have mounted mine there, but my arb switches were already in place.

[sevenslats]

Quick question for quality clarification.

What's the word winch written with?


(say that 3 times fast!)

[Ronster]

Its a sticker. I tried to peel mine off but no luck. I want to prevent someone from jacking with it when I have the top off...

[SHoppe715]

Could this switch panel be mounted next to my locker switch, similar to how this guy has these two switches mounted? Do you think it would be too far of a reach?

Without measuring, I seem to recall from the 12 volt guy's web site he designed that panel specifically to mount there. I don't imagine it would be too far since you almost reach there anyway just to shift. I can hit my axle lock switch with my hand on the shifter.

[SHoppe715]

I really like those controls and where you put it is a great, easy to reach location. I just didn't like how much more the 12 volt guy wants for the one that talks to the warn ti winches. It's almost as much as the setup that lets you use the TJ cruise control buttons to run the winch and control idle speed.

An idea Kyle had when he rode with me once was to run a controller cable from the winch to the dash and replace one of the 2 power outlets on the center panel with a control plug and then just plug your controller into the dash. You'd still be able to plug it in outside by unplugging the cable routed through the grill.

[sevenslats]

Steve, that sounds like the write up I used wehen I put ARB swithes in place of my ashtray. But I didn't use a winch controller, I used a 2nd 12V outlet.
Mine's a 97, thought. I think it may be a bit different. Lemme do some searching.

[Ronster]

I really like those controls and where you put it is a great, easy to reach location. I just didn't like how much more the 12 volt guy wants for the one that talks to the warn ti winches. It's almost as much as the setup that lets you use the TJ cruise control buttons to run the winch and control idle speed.

An idea Kyle had when he rode with me once was to run a controller cable from the winch to the dash and replace one of the 2 power outlets on the center panel with a control plug and then just plug your controller into the dash. You'd still be able to plug it in outside by unplugging the cable routed through the grill.

No reason why you cant use the same panel and run a seperate wire back for an overheat LED (if you wanted to). I am sure that I can get the directions if you really wanted it.

[SHoppe715]

[note to self] ...:fishslap:...:google: it before running yer piehole...[/note to self] http://www.12voltguy.com/95tiwinchpanel.htm

$44.99 + $6 S&H for the 9.5ti version...that's a lot less than I thought I remembered. hmmmmm... First I have to get something else for the GB and give the LJ it's winch back... Anyone know someone who sells winches...

[Ronster]

[note to self] ...:fishslap:...:google: it before running yer piehole...[/note to self] http://www.12voltguy.com/95tiwinchpanel.htm

$44.99 + $6 S&H for the 9.5ti version...that's a lot less than I thought I remembered. hmmmmm... First I have to get something else for the GB and give the LJ it's winch back... Anyone know someone who sells winches...

FYI, $51 does not include the wiring harness for the panel.

Marek, chime in :D

[ARCTIC_EXPRESS]

Steve I have a 12500# with your name on it...