shock mounts

[akram]

Some may know that I recently bought STOMPR's XJ.+ he had thought something was going in the steering due to a sound when he turned the steering wheel one way then the other quickly.+ also had a rattle sound when driving.+ When I picked it up we found out the bolts holding the driver's side shock mount on were loose and the mount was moving making the noise.+ Then today (first itme I've driven it anywhere) I went to meet Kev and he noticed the passenger side mount was moving as I drove up.+ He pointed out a crack in the mount.+ I think it can be welded but not sure.+ I crashed (went to sleep not the vehicle) after being up for over 36 hrs and didn't get a cahnce to look it over closer.+ I'm going to look at it closer tomorrow to see exactly what is wrong. I'm wanting to know if someone could help me fix this before the weekend.+ Either weld and fix the existing ones or help make a new set. I don't have much time during the day and work at night.+ So if you could help out let me know.+ Reply or pm or call.+ Thanks.+ Should be a quick easy job.

mel
356-8455

Sorry if this seemed long.

[AK20]

I would offer for you to bring it by my shop and I would weld the ones you have, but seems we both work night shift so I guess that won't be an option...I'm sure someone can hook you up!

[akram]

Thanks for the offer though.

[naturalbornmudder]

if I coul dget it over here, I'd weld it up for you.

[akram]

I might possibly be able to drive down there. I'm just concerned about driving it witht he one cracked. I'm going out in just a few to look them over. Starting to get light now. I'm going to pull them off and it can be welded I can drive my truck and take them somewhere.

[naturalbornmudder]

I am getting my cast put on tonight so I do not know what time I will be getting home. I will help you. It's just getting the time to get to it, day and all.

[akram]

I went out and took a closer look at it.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/akrammit/wheeling/passside.jpg
That is what it looks like. I can't get the whole shock mount off right now cause I can't quite get to the other end of the bolts. I had considered just getting them welded on there instead of having the bolts there.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/akrammit/wheeling/S5300084.jpg

Drivers side. You can see where the mount has moved and rubbed.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/akrammit/wheeling/S5300086.jpg

I found out I have to work tonight at 1930. So my day got shot. If there is anyone that can do it during the day today or tomorrow I can do that. Or I'm supposed to be off thurs night so I can do something after 1730.
Thanks for the help.

[STOMPR]

I would just weld the mounts on and weld up the fracture, done deal.

[akram]

I would just weld the mounts on and weld up the fracture, done deal.


that's pretty much what I was thinking. I just got to get someone to do it for me. I have no welder and my welding skills aren't very good.

[ChevyKev]

I respectfully disagree! ;D

If they cracked once, they may crack again. And if they're welded they will be harder to remove and upgrade later when they do that. SO why not figure out how to make osme that will be stronger now.

While it may be true that the loose bolts may have caused the movement that caused the cracks, but if it cracked when it was loose, who says it won't crack when it is tight? You don't plan on taking it "easy" on this vehicle - so why keep something you know failed?

If nothing else, tighten the bolts and weld the cracks for now, but don't weld that thin metal bracket to the frame. Then when you have more time you can make new ones that will be stronger.

Also - call me for my availability to help.... oh wait, I'm out of weelding gas! :'(

[STOMPR]

Well I wholeheartedly agree ;D If the materials, time, and skill where available making bombproof mounts and installing them would be the way to go. Although I still feel some new grade 8 bolts with lock tight, a few welds on the corners to help it not move and welding up the fracture would be simpler and sufficiently strong. Worst case scenario after many miles of wheeling you have to grind a few welds off. But its whatever a guy wants to do.

[akram]

I see both of your points, kinda the same.+ I want to get it fixed so I can hopefully go on the run sat.+ I just don't want to do a fix that will break right away.+ If it can be fixed, crack welded and bolts tightened up good enough, to last the run then after I will work on making some better ones.+ Problem is I couldn't get to all the bolts onthe inside to get them good and tightened.+ Mostly on the driver's side.+ I might go with just doing a few welds on the corners like stompr said, and get the bolts tightened and then start making new ones.

And no I don't plan on "taking it too easy".
thanks for the info and suggestions.


Bummer on being out of welding gas. :(

Also who is up for helping me make some new brakcets in the near future. I will compensate you.

[naturalbornmudder]

If nothing else, tighten the bolts and weld the cracks for now, but don't weld that thin metal bracket to the frame. Then when you have more time you can make new ones that will be stronger

I second that.

Kev, just pick a spool of flux core.

[sevenslats]

Unbolt those shocks so there won't be any more stress on the mount. Get out the tape meassure and the RTI ramp. See what length of shocks you need. IIRC, that heep has andjusbatle ride height, you may just need to tweak that a little.

[STOMPR]

It does have ACOS but it cant get any shorter only taller, but I agree it may be that the shocks are to short and after maxing out they have put undue stress on the mounts :-\

[akram]

Unbolt those shocks so there won't be any more stress on the mount. Get out the tape meassure and the RTI ramp. See what length of shocks you need. IIRC, that heep has andjusbatle ride height, you may just need to tweak that a little.


Sounds like a few of us might need to get together here soon with the ramp. To help me out.:)

[ChevyKev]

Kev, just pick a spool of flux core.


Better yet, a new bottle of gas!

[akram]

Would anybody be able to help me do a temp fix till I can get some new mounts made, either today during the day or thurs after 1730?

[sevenslats]

Mel, is it driveable? Could you meet someone somewhere? Could you drive your other rig to someone's house to borrow their welder? I wish I could help directly, but for now I can only expedite.

[akram]

It is driveable. Not trail worthy but road worthy. Thanks for the help slats even though you are so far away, that's cool.

[naturalbornmudder]

if you can get it to my house, I can weld it for you, no worries.

[akram]

Tell me when. If thurs evening would be better that would be cool. If today I would have to be able to be back at Ftww by 1600. Let me know. And thanks a lot dude.

[naturalbornmudder]

I don't get off work till 1500.

Man, this isnt working out is it?

[akram]

No it seems things are just against me right now. What about Thurs evening? I can leave FWW at 1730 and head that way. But it might be too dark by then. Fri I can probably make it anytime. Depends on if I can get work done at 0530 instead of 1600. let me know what works.

[naturalbornmudder]

Thursday evening I can do it. I have a garage so daylight isnt an issue.

[akram]

cool. So I will leave right around 1730 and head that way if tht's cool. Or just let me know what time to be there.

And once again thanks.

[naturalbornmudder]

mel, where are you? Ready to weld...

[LowNSlowNeon]

mel, where are you? Ready to weld...


answer your pms brotha! :D

[naturalbornmudder]

checked PM's, called phone...

:-\ ???

[naturalbornmudder]

it welds the shock mount on the xj skin, or else it gets the hose again...

[akram]

Big thanks to Nate. Sorry I was late. Nate got a good weld on to fix the crack. We got the mounts tightened up real good too. Now I need to come up with an idea for new mounts. Also I need new shocks.

So I need to figure it all in together. New shock mounts, location, and shock length. The man (nate) suggested taken some pics of how it is now and posting up and seeing what you guys can come up with. I like that idea. So I'm going to get pics here real soon and let you all have at it.

Once again thanks man.

[akram]

Ok here are some pics of of how the shock is mounted now.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/akrammit/wheeling/shocklocation.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b297/akrammit/wheeling/S5300087.jpg

Here is one example of mounting it in the stock loction with a homemade mount
http://www.tandjperformance.com/images/products/xj-shockmount/shockmountinstalled.gif
http://www.tandjperformance.com/images/products/xj-shockmount/shockmountinstalled2.gif
Tkaen from this webstie http://www.tandjperformance.com/products-bpp-xj-shockbracetconversion.htm

also here is another item to locate the shock at the stock location
http://www.rocky-road.com/media/pinadapt.jpg
http://www.rocky-road.com/pinadapt.html

Let me know what you all think. Or if you have other idears. I'm all ears. Oh and it has to be somewhat affordable. Nothing too extravagant like coilovers.

[sevenslats]

Not much uptravel in the current location. Why was it moved from stock? Looks like you need some F-150 shock towers, and weld 'em on the unibody directly above the mount on the axle, as high as possible. Then measure for new shocks.


That last pic, I've seen those bolted on the rear axle of ZJ/TJs to clear the coil bucket when pinion angle changes due to lift. Never seen it on the front application. ???

[mousee]

are you having a problem with the unibody cracking or just the stud? If it is just the stud, then just make it a double shear. Looks to me that it would be fine.

[naturalbornmudder]

in the current location,. the mount is bolted to 1/2 unibody "frame" and the other 1/2 is bolted to a thin sheet steel, so when the shock uptravels or downtravels, the thin steel flexes. For the moment, the trouble was the the weld on the stud had cracked, so I lay a thick bead all the way around the stud that should keep it for a while.

In a perfect scenerio, if it were mine, I woul dget some hoop shock towers that go up through and past the stock mounting location and use a cross member brace in the engine bay to further secure them. Then he would have room for more travel in the shocks.

[sevenslats]

that's what I said.

[akram]

I'm not sure why they were moved. It was done by Mike Ellis I believe( chime in if I'm wrong Nate). The last bracket goes into the stock location. There is a whole where the stock mount was so they would work in the same way it did when stock.

Like nate said, the location they are at now isn't working all too great due to the thin metal. The unibody didn't crack but it seems to have bent slightly.
I do like Nate's idea. I'm not too good at designing stuff like that. So if you want to maybe draw something up and give me some ideas that would be cool:)
I need new shocks so I want to do this all at one time. I know I can't figure out the length of the shocks until I figure out the mounting situation first though.
Thanks for the input guys.

[sevenslats]

No fabbing required for F-150 towers.
Purchase
Hold in desired location
remove any obstructions
weld
measure for shocks.

[akram]

Sounds like that might be a great plan. Now I just need to try to find some. Still contemplating a few things.

[mousee]

Find the shock you want to run and fab around them. thats what I did, baught the longest shock offered and made 'em work...

[akram]

Another good idea. That's why I like you guys. You are full of, well that and good ideas hahaha. But seriously thanks for the ideas and help on this. I'm hoping to get started on this real soon. Unfortunately I'm leaving for a cple weeks headed to korea on the 21st. so it might have to wait till I get back.