Tell him to get an adjustable rear trackbar, and all adjustable control arms.
This way he can add a 2" coil spacer down the road and fit 33's without much trimming.
The 5.9L ZJ was one of the fastest SUV's out there prior to the Cyanne Turbo and the Hemi Grand Cherokee. The WJ's never got close to the speed.
Tell him to prepare to swap the NP249 T-case for a NP231 or NP242. I can get him a link if he needs it.
Blazer is on the trailer ready to go to the shop and replace the bellhousing.
In about 6 hours I will start on that so that Saturday is a go in the Blazer rather than the diesel!
DD plow truck has a non-leaky water pump.
The artist formerly known as Forrest now has windshield wipers that work!
He also has a new - non exhaust melted - speedo cable that is routed away from such said exhaust.
Airmanwoody Wrote:Tell him to get an adjustable rear trackbar, and all adjustable control arms.
This way he can add a 2" coil spacer down the road and fit 33's without much trimming.
The 5.9L ZJ was one of the fastest SUV's out there prior to the Cyanne Turbo and the Hemi Grand Cherokee. The WJ's never got close to the speed.
Tell him to prepare to swap the NP249 T-case for a NP231 or NP242. I can get him a link if he needs it.
Thanks for the info Mark. I'll let him know if he wants to go higher. Gotta wait for him to get that itch right? Mainly wanted to make sure he had what he needed for what he's got now.
What he has now is a good start, but the control arm lengths will be an issue when wheeling. 31's or narrow 32's are all he can fit without major trimming at the moment. If he wants to wheel and flex, find a set of YJ front brake lines and replace the current ones. The YJ ones are much longer and will help a lot.
Apart from that, he's got a great start. However, like I said, watch the T-case. If after he's got it warmed up the front end hops when the wheel is at full lock, the viscous coupler in the T-case is bad. Driving with a bad VC is hard on front driveshafts, the front axle, tires, CV joints, and ball joints. A new VC is gonna run about $600 plus labor. A NP231 or NP242 will bolt up if you change the input shaft (make sure the 231 or 242 are from a 96 or newer XJ or TJ) and shorten the rear DS an inch (not everyone I've talked to have had to do this, but a few have). If he has any issues let me know.
Is that the input shaft for the front or rear DS?
The input shaft on the T-case.
Noticed the front vent tube for my axle was torn through, about 4 inches from the axle itself. No water fording for me until I get that issue taken care of...grr.
Which one? The front pops out often.
Sentry sells rubber hose for like $0.11 per foot.
It's not popped off, it's torn, ragged and all, hanging down from my radiator. After tonight I may need to change the fluid in the diff, sooner than I had planned. I'll go out and get some hose and lube tomorrow.
Oh, and I'm kicking around an idea to weld the spider gears in my D35...I'm told that'll be a REALLY bad idea due to the weakness of the carrier...don't want to kill that as I just bought it...maybe I'll leave it open for now.
DId you swap that pinion seal yet?
I wouldn't weld up a d35. ask Mark.
ESPECIALLY this close to winter.
Yeah Eric did the pinion seal for me. THANKS ERIC.
Yeah I'll leave the D35 open, maybe get a lock-right in next spring.
Joe,
My rig plans may be changing as I might go to the Dark side and start wheelin' a Chevy come next spring.
You MIGHT be able to talk me out of a Detroit EZ-locker and spare carrier for the D35.
Let me know. I do have a few spare axle shafts as well.
If the price is right, I'm there.
Is there anyone who can assist lil ol' me in replacing my rear brake shoes? according to eric and my recent experiences, they're pretty shot.
With the situation I just had with my fender and hood latch needing a hospital, I was thinking of just doing away with the hood latches altogether and getting
these. Good idea or no? Pros, cons, etc?
I like the looks of them,. I may want to switch as well.
got a new tcase adapter, going on this weekend, cab being tightened down, clutch hooked up for good, front clip going on, and yeah, possibly starting it up!!!
TJVigilante Wrote:With the situation I just had with my fender and hood latch needing a hospital, I was thinking of just doing away with the hood latches altogether and getting these. Good idea or no? Pros, cons, etc?
I cant say for offroad use if these are good or not but I loved them on a 69 Chevelle Malibu I use to own back in the day and I believe they would do well.
joe i had a set of these, i hated them, let me repeat hated
Last week I replaced the bellhousing for my transmition. It had not been right since installation - over time, 3 stripped bolt holes led to 1 bolt holding my trans to my bellhousing.
Upone removal, I learned that the bell housing was wrong for the transmition. Older style trans has the 2 lower bolts that are supposed to come from inside the bellhousing and thread into the tranny. top two go through trans and thread into bellhousing. My bellhousing had all 4 holes threaded - and the lower bolt hole sizes were different for trans and bellhousing.
So I got a different bellhousing that didn't have stripped threads, drilled threads out of trans housing so all bolts would go through trans and thread into bellhousing. Seemed like a greta idea, but the housing on the trans is so tight around those holes that one can't get a wrench or socket on the bolts to tighten them. So with 2 bolts installed and tight - which was 100% improvement over only one bolt being in there - I loaded it up on the trailer and headed to Denali Fastener - where I picked up some bolts with the inset hex head so that I can get an allen wrench in there and tighten those up.
The result, my drivetrain felt tighter than it has in years. Less vibrations, noises, and more power to the tires quicker (the trans shifter used to pivot bakck and forth a lot - but no more)
It's amazing how things work better when they're fixed correctly!
4x4_MMMH_4x4 Wrote:joe i had a set of these, i hated them, let me repeat hated
Any specifics? Like, were they a PITA to install, or use? I don't plan on opening my hood very often.
TJVigilante Wrote:Any specifics? Like, were they a PITA to install, or use? I don't plan on opening my hood very often.
I can see it now, underhood fire, you jump out grab your fire extinguisher and run to the front. Damn....run back to the ignition and grab the key...run to the front fiddle with the lock....arghh...dropped the keys and one of the locks is full of mud..........
....at least now with the insurance money you can put a down payment on a Rubicon! :p
And that scenario is not all that unlikely, especially with wheeling, winches and hack mechanics! :eek:
If your bent on getting some, get the clip-style, so you can jerk them off in a hurry.
TJVigilante Wrote:Is there anyone who can assist lil ol' me in replacing my rear brake shoes? according to eric and my recent experiences, they're pretty shot.
You want to do it one night next week? We can run it through my garage.
Yeah I can do it next week, I'll call around and get some cheapy shoes. And good point on the hood pins...that's why I posted up, always good to get alternate POV's.
Well, turns out that changing the diff fluid in the front made a hell of a difference in the feel of the Jeep....that stuff in there was horrible....and now there's no more gear noise that I can determine...whee. Now I just need to make a vent tube up tomorrow so I can take it in the mud on Saturday.
The BB is removed from the ZJ, and I'm down to 3" springs, extended LCAs, and 31s. That NXC bumper is looking out of place.
I did start a license plate mount to keep Sgt Eielson-Gate-Guard off my back.
Thanks to Kelly's electrical expertise and Lorna's cooking, my winch is now operational. 2 wires had snapped off the terminal on the inside of the motor. Also, I have a few new colors of electrical tape on my ppower cables. I did not get to install the rear locker, or inspect the 4.88s and winterize the gear oil just yet. Additionally, I have slight vibes at 40mph that will require attention.
ok, though redundant - this is what's up:
Blazer's rear window is shattered. New tailgate with window and electirc motor - that may even open and close - is scheduled for installation soon.
Skitzo's engine block is cracked. Most likely the innards will be put in another block as they are all new.
However, I could build the 455 Buick I have
Though that would probably at least entail - remodification of trans crossmember, redo exhuast, t-case linkage, and driveshafts.
Plow Blazer - needs a trans swap,
new body lift (what they had was 2" square tubing with very thin walls that has squashed and shifted.
fix leaks
Install plow
75 Plow Truck - goes to Eric for removal of plow once blazer is done.
6.5 Turbodiesel Suburban - needs step sides installed and an oil change.
6.2 Diesel pickup (3+3) - sold - need s engine connected as it is back in the vehichle and bolted only to trans and motor mounts.
83 Jeep Cherokee - needs sold. $1200 OBO
Needs either front swaybar installed (have it - not installed), steering stabalizer replaced and/or ball joints - or some combination thereof - as it has some death wobble around 45mph.
41 Chevy needs to have the 69 Blazer frame brought in, cleaned, engine and trans installed, body fitted to the frame - basically the whole things needs to be built. Though I do have most of the parts.
73 Chevy Pickup needs engine installed and sold.
and it needs a new brake booster.
83 Chevy needs engine rebuilt and sold.
I think that's most of my vehicles / projects.