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90 Blazer: needs new master cyl installed for hydraulic clutch - and system bled.
Needs front driveshaft installed.
Needs tires swapped back to 35x12.5 BFG AT's
Needs IM'd

getting closer!
My TJ is getting the DD duty for the next month. I've got the rear sway bar installed finally, but I'm still not happy with the highway manners. I'm at 6" of lift, and my rear axle is 2" narrower than stock. not ideal.
Also, I played with the caster last night, but that didn't seem to change things on the drive to work this morning. I really need to figure out where to measure that, and put my new angle-finder to work to help me.
I need to figure out if my wheel or axle shaft is bent, and replace the defective one.
I'm impatiently waiting for a spool from a copper TJ or a lock-right from a Rockee so I can be locked up again. I dearly miss that!
The hard top will be coming off sometime this month, and I'll go soft until I go topless.

The ZJ is in limbo. part of me wants to return it to stock, part of me wants to get some 31" MTs and wheel it.

And of course, in the back of my mind is the plan to sell them both and get a 2007 4-door JK Rubicon.

TJVigilante

Jeep is parked until I can get it to Kevin's to get the pinion bearing replaced.
I've gotten the TJ a little more comfortable. Still not perfect. I guess I need rear spacers to stabilize myself a little. And then I need to get an alignment done again. Get the best caster/pinion angle I can, and go with that. I'm afradi I may be at the point of cutting and turning the yokes on the housing. Sad Or finding a HP axle. Sad Sad
I swapped the rear wheels, and the wobble is still there. I have a bent axleshaft. I'm afraid that was eating lunchbox loxkers. I'm afraid to ask what it's doing to my R&P. It makes my CD player skip.

I had an awesome alignment done on the ZJ yesterday at American Tire. Ziggy got me the AO discount as well. Wink It's better on the highway, and I thikn the in-laws will feel better driving it next week. I hope to get the tranny filter changed out soon. it's overdue.
sevenslats Wrote:I hope to get the tranny filter changed out soon. it's overdue.

Don't forget to do a band adjustment while the pan is off.
sevenslats Wrote:Sad Or finding a HP axle. Sad Sad

I know where a HP 30 is Smile
TJVigilante Wrote:Jeep is parked until I can get it to Kevin's to get the pinion bearing replaced.

Jeep drove home yesterday! Big Grin

akdsmer

AKMark Wrote:Don't forget to do a band adjustment while the pan is off.


Front band is adjusted externally. The rear band is adjusted with the tranny pan off.

TJVigilante

ChevyKev Wrote:Jeep drove home yesterday! Big Grin

Yes indeedy. I'm glad to have it back and be able to use 4wd without worry. Relatively. Cool
akdsmer Wrote:Front band is adjusted externally. The rear band is adjusted with the tranny pan off.

Correct, I always like to do mine (when it was an auto) when I did the filter change. Funny part is the rear one is many times easier than the front. Go figure.
I put the soft top on. Even what little heat I have in the garage was out, so it wasn't easy. It's hard to believe how much that fabric contracts in the cold.
I'm almost convinced my steering issue is caused by the front locker. Who's got a automatic locker in the front of a rig with no hubs? Does it cause you grief changing lanes? That's when I notice it the most.

I haven't gotten around to the ZJ tranny.
sevenslats Wrote:I'm almost convinced my steering issue is caused by the front locker. Who's got a automatic locker in the front of a rig with no hubs? Does it cause you grief changing lanes? That's when I notice it the most.

When locked on the road mine handles horribly. When accelerating it pulls one way, push the clutch in and you almost cahnge lanes to the other side. Sounds like this is a very plausible explanation.
From what I have read, They are almost invisible when driving. In 4wd you know it is there because the input torque from the drive shaft causes it to lockup. In 2wd there is no torque to lock it up. I don't have one but that is what I have seen on alot of forums.
Burb = out of commission until further notice. We believe the oil pump failed and that's why the motor isn't working properly. We replaced the head gasket and it didn't want to run and was ticking, so we pulled the opposite valve cover and fired it up, and noticed we got no oil up to the top of the motor. Not good.

Now on the lookout for another DD.
ChevyKev Wrote:When locked on the road mine handles horribly. When accelerating it pulls one way, push the clutch in and you almost cahnge lanes to the other side. Sounds like this is a very plausible explanation.

Is that just with the hubs locked, or the 4wd engaged, or both?

I can't unlock my hubs.
sevenslats Wrote:Is that just with the hubs locked, or the 4wd engaged, or both?

I can't unlock my hubs.

Hubs and 4x4. With the hubs locked and 2wd it still messes with the handeling, but not as bad as when in 4x4 on the road.
ChevyKev Wrote:Hubs and 4x4. With the hubs locked and 2wd it still messes with the handeling, but not as bad as when in 4x4 on the road.

That's where I'm at.
I tried 4x4 on the street once. :eek:

Ronster

I installed a seat heater in the Jeep last night. I know it wasnt really cold this morning, but it was nice to have toasty buns when I got to work.
sevenslats Wrote:That's where I'm at.
I tried 4x4 on the street once. :eek:
Are you talking about icy roads? You shouldn't feel it too much on dry pavement but I can see it getting really squirrely on ice even in 2wd. The roads are slick enough some places to not let the tires grab enough to unlock the diff. They need a small amount of resistance to unlock. It'll be locked while at rest or driving straight. They disengage around corners with a light go pedal, but will reengage if given some torque input.
On the highway, in 2wd, when I change lanes, it's outta control. I need to have a firm, two-hand grip on the wheel or I'm in the ditch. It's manageable on the straightaways, and even around curves.
4wd is a whole other animal.
I wonder what kind of difference a rear locker (or spool) will make.
The FSJ is home thawing out in my garage. I put the battery on a charger, as after only a few days it lost the charge (I had it disconnected and it still lost the charge) ARGH! Anyway I plan on letting it run for awhile and seafoaming it. After that, I'll change the oil and plugs, hope to try to pass I/M on Monday.
Project Grizzlybeaver is on hold until I can work on everything outside. Every little smell drives Megan up the wall. My plan of picking away little by little inside while it's cold is shot to #@!!. Come April I'll be doing latenights in the driveway. At least the lights will stay on.
FSJ's rear window has been repaired. It wouldn't move because the switch that allows the window motor to get power wouldn't engage. I removed and essentially hotwired it and got the gate open, then was able to rewire it so the switch isn't in there anymore. The window doesn't go smooth yet, but when it's warmer I'll clean out the tracks and that should help a lot.

Seafoamed the carburator and it quit blowing carbon out the pipe. I lowered the idle as it was too high. Plugged in about four vacuum lines, don't know if they were in the right places yet, but I'll get it figured out.

Found a factory service manual in the backseat. YIPEE!

Still need to:
Oil change
I/M
Registration
Fix T-case linkage (some is missing)
Fix speedometer cable
Fix defroster (currently stuck on floor setting)
Replace washer fluid bottle, (old one was cracked).
Mark check the alignment of the window tracts and the tail gate, they get missaligned over time and cause problems with the rear window. there are a few FSJ web sites out there with alot of good info.
The window track isn't that great, but at least the arms are going up and down the right way. I've found lots of good info out there, and I've got some more learning to do.

naturalbornmudder

mule is in better shape.

Lil T is getting neglected. I need to replace the bolt in the rear track bar and find those stupid e brake cables.